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PeanutEOD

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Ok, I've been collecting the pieces I need for my build. Kinda planning it out before I install everything and get toward the end and realize I'm missing one piece.

So far, I have:
CT Sounds 6X9" MESO Coax in the front doors with mounting rings foam baffle cups and harness adapter.
CT Sounds 6.5" MESO Coax in the rear doors with mounting rings foam baffle cups and harness adapter.
CT Sounds 12" Sub in a box.
CT Sounds CT-1500.5D 5 channel amplifier.
Audio Control LC8i Line Output Converter.
KnuKonceptz wire for amp power, ground, RCAs, speaker wire to the sub box, and remote turn on wire.
Both AutoHarnessHouse wiring harnesses for the factory Harman Kardon Amp.
9 Conductor 16 AWG wire for the signal transfer.

My plan is to cut the AHH harness speaker wires coming out of the HK amp and send that signal to the LC8i. RCAs will connect the LC8i to the CT Sounds amp. Then the amplified signal will be sent to the speakers through the other side of the AHH harness plugged into the factory harness.

Anyone have experience with this setup? Not necessarily the exact same setup, but amplifying the speakers in the 22 and up WRX, not just adding a sub.
Sub Reduced.jpeg
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Build Photo
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PeanutEOD said:
Ok, I've been collecting the pieces I need for my build. Kinda planning it out before I install everything and get toward the end and realize I'm missing one piece.

So far, I have:
CT Sounds 6X9" MESO Coax in the front doors with mounting rings foam baffle cups and harness adapter.
CT Sounds 6.5" MESO Coax in the rear doors with mounting rings foam baffle cups and harness adapter.
CT Sounds 12" Sub in a box.
CT Sounds CT-1500.5D 5 channel amplifier.
Audio Control LC8i Line Output Converter.
KnuKonceptz wire for amp power, ground, RCAs, speaker wire to the sub box, and remote turn on wire.
Both AutoHarnessHouse wiring harnesses for the factory Harman Kardon Amp.
9 Conductor 16 AWG wire for the signal transfer.

My plan is to cut the AHH harness speaker wires coming out of the HK amp and send that signal to the LC8i. RCAs will connect the LC8i to the CT Sounds amp. Then the amplified signal will be sent to the speakers through the other side of the AHH harness plugged into the factory harness.

Anyone have experience with this setup? Not necessarily the exact same setup, but amplifying the speakers in the 22 and up WRX, not just adding a sub.
View attachment 70749
Click to expand...
Your setup looks solid! Here are a few tips and considerations based on your components:

1. **Wiring**: Ensure all connections are secure and well-insulated to avoid any shorts. Double-check the gauge of your KnuKonceptz wire to make sure it's appropriate for your amp's power needs.

2. **Line Output Converter (LOC)**: Make sure the Audio Control LC8i is set up correctly to match the impedance and output levels of your factory Harman Kardon amp. This will help ensure a clean signal to your CT Sounds amp.

3. **Signal Transfer**: The 9 Conductor 16 AWG wire you mentioned for signal transfer should work well. Just make sure you're following good practices for routing the wires to minimize noise and interference.

4. **Amplifier Configuration**: Once installed, take the time to properly tune your CT Sounds amp. Adjust the gain, crossover settings, and any EQ settings to match your listening preferences and the acoustics of your vehicle.

5. **Testing**: Before finalizing the installation, test each component individually to ensure everything is functioning properly. This can save you headaches later if an issue arises.

6. **Factory Integration**: Since you're using both AHH harnesses, make sure to follow the correct wiring scheme to maintain compatibility with your factory system.

If you have any specific concerns or questions about the installation, feel free to ask!
 
Careful, you should be using the factory head unit speaker output leads for the source, not after the amplifier. The amp's output is likely too high for the LC8i and may also be dirtier than the headunit's output.

Additionally, the factory HU is going to want to see a load from the speakers, and since you would be circumventing this, you will likely need LGDs (load-generating device) inline with the LC8i (non-pro version).

Additinally, consider the LC8i Pro.

Your subwoofer tuning (the loaded CT sounds 12") frequency is tuned to 34hz and the LC8i non-pro version has a fixed HP (subsonic) filter set at 33hz and the LC8i-pro has a fixed HP filter at 22hz.

You don't want your subsonic (HP) filter at less than a half octave below the tuning frequency of the sub, at 34 hz, that is aproximatley 24hz for the HP (subsonic) filter.

The LC8 you have (if the non-pro version) is going to interfere (at an unacceptable level IMHO) with the bottom end of the subwoofers' output.

A 33hz HP filter (present on the LC8) would be used in a subwoofer tuned to roughly 48hz or higher.
 
Last edited:
Heads up, there is an LC7i pro for sale here, which I believe has built-in LGDs and an ACR-1 remote for your dash. Either way, it's a Pro version, and that's what you need.

Make him an offer, can only say no, yes?

BNIB Audio Control LC7i Pro

AudioControl LC2i PRO 2-Channel Active Line Output Converter Driver ACR-1 Knob LC7i PRO is an active, high-voltage OEM line converter. This compact, six-channel processor with active input circuitry, accepts speaker-level signals of up to 400-watts per channel from factory-installed...
www.caraudio.com www.caraudio.com
 
Doxquzme said:
Careful, you should be using the factory head unit speaker output leads for the source, not after the amplifier. The amp's output is likely too high for the LC8i and may also be dirtier than the headunit's output.

Additionally, the factory HU is going to want to see a load from the speakers, and since you would be circumventing this, you will likely need LGDs (load-generating device) inline with the LC8i (non-pro version).

Additinally, consider the LC8i Pro.

Your subwoofer tuning (the loaded CT sounds 12") frequency is tuned to 34hz and the LC8i non-pro version has a fixed HP (subsonic) filter set at 33hz and the LC8i-pro has a fixed HP filter at 22hz.

You don't want your subsonic (HP) filter at less than a half octave below the tuning frequency of the sub, at 34 hz, that is aproximatley 24hz for the HP (subsonic) filter.

The LC8 you have (if the non-pro version) is going to interfere (at an unacceptable level IMHO) with the bottom end of the subwoofers' output.

A 33hz HP filter (present on the LC8) would be used in a subwoofer tuned to roughly 48hz or higher.
Click to expand...
Are you sure about the signal? I was under the impression that on this car that the signal was unusable before the amp because the signal was processed by the amp, and only data signals were going into the amp. It also controls other features in the car including volume.

I haven't installed anything yet, so I still have plenty of time to return that LC8i and pick up that LC7i Pro you mentioned.

Thank you for the advice.
 
Well, the OEM amp has to be getting its signal from somewhere, no?

I believe that the front R/L from the HU are full bandwidth signal leads, the rear are heavily filtered and not to be used.

The amp likely has factory DSP/EQ built in, which is tuned and designed to work with that amp and the factory speakers, so it is not going to be EQ'd to your aftermarket speakers.

What they most likely meant was that it has no usable direct-to-speaker output, as it is a low-level (like RCA type) output, not high-wattage to drive a speaker, to which the following should help address:

The LC7i PRO has the following settings that you may have to try to see which one suits the output from the head unit:

Load Select: A slide-switch lets you select one of three input loads to best match the factory system, preventing it from muting the output with no load detected.

  • 20Ω: Best suited for late model Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/RAM/Fiat vehicles with a non-amplified OEM sound system.
  • 60Ω: Best suited for late model Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/RAM/Fiat vehicles with an amplified, or "Premium", sound system.
  • 20kΩ: Used for most other vehicle applications.
This will impact the GTO feature, should you elect to use it as the remote turn-on feature in the LC7i pro. 20kΩ is likely the best one for you.

You may want to check with someone like Critchfield or Subaru, but I'm pretty confident that is the case.

Good move on the LC7i pro, that'll help for sure.
 
Last edited:
Doxquzme said:
Well, the OEM amp has to be getting its signal from somewhere, no?

I believe that the front R/L from the HU are full bandwidth signal leads, the rear are heavily filtered and not to be used.

The amp likely has factory DSP/EQ built in, which is tuned and designed to work with that amp and the factory speakers, so it is not going to be EQ'd to your aftermarket speakers.

What they most likely meant was that it has no usable direct-to-speaker output, as it is a low-level (like RCA type) output, not high-wattage to drive a speaker, to which the following should help address:

The LC7i PRO has the following settings that you may have to try to see which one suits the output from the head unit:

Load Select: A slide-switch lets you select one of three input loads to best match the factory system, preventing it from muting the output with no load detected.

  • 20Ω: Best suited for late model Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/RAM/Fiat vehicles with a non-amplified OEM sound system.
  • 60Ω: Best suited for late model Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/RAM/Fiat vehicles with an amplified, or "Premium", sound system.
  • 20kΩ: Used for most other vehicle applications.
This will impact the GTO feature, should you elect to use it as the remote turn-on feature in the LC7i pro. 20kΩ is likely the best one for you.

You may want to check with someone like Critchfield or Subaru, but I'm pretty confident that is the case.

Good move on the LC7i pro, that'll help for sure.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your advice. I'll be referring back to this post regularly once I have collected the necessary components.
 
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