Recent content by tigey

If there's anyone in the SDSU area of San Diego who would let me use their faceplate for a few minutes, I'd put off having to buy a new faceplate for a while. Thanks.

I dropped this puppy. Replacing it costs as much as a whole new head unit, but accurately changing audio settings is impossible without a functioning face plate. I need advice here. Thanks in advance.

Do I get a prize for stumping y'all?

If I have 8-ohm speakers covering the midrange in a 3-way network - in which the low and high networks use 4-ohm speakers - can I expect to have phasing issues? If the answer is yes, can I avoid this problem if I were to parallel-wire another set of 8-ohm speakers to the first two 8-ohm...

Oops... my tweets are too big to fit in my A pillars.

I also have the option of parallel wiring the coaxials (presently in the rear deck) with the mids as the midrange speakers in the door, and then run the tweeters as the high range speakers probably, like you say, in the a-pillars. What do you think of that option? Thanks again for your help.

mlstrass, first, thank you for the help. I am running my hu on 3-way network; isn't that active? Also, by saying I should run the tweeters off of the passive crossover, do you mean replacing the JL tweets with the Vifas? If so, I'm a bit leery since JL warns not to do so. Right now I'm...

It looks like I'll parallel them and just drop the EQ and volume levels for that particular set of speakers (mids and tweets). Possible drawbacks include (1) the mids' volume will also have to be dropped; (2) maybe I'll have to run two pairs of tweets since JL says I must run their speakers as...

Tick tock...

I want to replace the tweeters in my JL TR 650-csi's, so I bought a pair of vifa xt25tg30-04's. JL, though, says that I should have the speaker running as is. My question is this: Am I better off to ignore JL's "advice," or to parallel wire them, and run a capacitor and pad them with...

Kappas, I believe, are 2-ohm, and some say they wouldn't take a chance on Infinity's word that they won't damage a hu that's not 2-ohm stable. Just a thought...

Problem solved. After trying just about every combination of wire swap and wearing a tinfoil hat, Imtjnotu offered to come over and help me this weekend, but I stumbled upon - not solved, there's a difference - the fact that when the volume remote wire is connected, the sub won't play. It's...

By the way, I'm not running it off of the remote wire, I' m running it off audio. I switched it back to remote, though, to see if that was the issue, but it still didn't work right. I think, though, that I was in the driveway (car not running) when I did this. Maybe I should try again while...

For the grounds on all three amps, I have used self-tapping screws into what I think is pretty flimsy sheet metal just below the back window. The DMM says it's solid, so I used it. I also suspected ground, so I changed it back to the original ground, but no dice. The original ground area is...

4-gauge wire runs to a fused distribution block, three 8-gauge wires exit the fused distribution block, each feeding a separate amp. Thaey are grounded close together with 8-gauge wire in a location a DMM said was solid. Originally I had the sub grounded to a bolt that felt direct-to-frame...