Recent content by Texduc

That's what I was hoping for but just didn't want to screw anything up with my ignorance. Thanks.

I promise I did a search but couldn't find anything. I'm sure this is basic knowledge but I want to be sure. I've got 2 SVC 4 ohm subs and a mono amp with two speaker outputs. I'm wiring in parallel to make it 2 ohm. My problem is that I only put one output jack in the enclosure and both...

Sorry....I am an IDIOT. Thanks for setting me, and others who may see this in the future, straight.

Agreed. How many people do you know (or heard of) that have 8 10s? Now, how many do you know have 18 8s?

FYI, your total cone area for the (18) 8s will be 904.32 vs. total area for the (8) 10s will be 628.

That's good because that's the install kit I ordered with it. Thanks

I've got a similar question with a Audiopipe 1500.1 pushing two 10s @ 4 ohms with 300 rms each. Would 4 gauge still work? Thanks

They don't have many dealers so you have to contact them at dcaudiosales@gmail.com. I did last week and they came back pretty quickly with a price list.

Gotcha. Good stuff.

Really. That's good to know. What's the advantage to a 4 ohm sub then?

That's what I was thinking but I'm still pretty ignorant to a lot of this stuff. Also, the rms of the RE is 600 which is what the amp is rated for at 4 ohm. I've been told that the amp will run cooler, with lower distortion, and improved damping factor when run at 4 ohm. That's why I'd prefer...

I was going to move this until I saw 93dakota's post. I'll keep it here unless the mods prefer to move it.

I'm still pretty new to car audio but I feel like I'm drinking from a fire hose as I read through this forum and the12volt.com. My question is how important is it to have a 2 ohm or 4 ohm sub? I'm looking at either a RE SE10D2 or RE SE10D4 sub. For an amp, I'm looking at a Audiopipe 15001D...

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In case anyone runs into the same problem down the road, the mute wire was grounding out when I inserted the receiver. Taped it off and it's good to go.