Recent content by smichael85

Says the guy telling people to wire up a harness with wire nuts...

Why would your signal be weak splitting it to two different amps? Voltage connected to parallel loads is equivalent...current is divided.

Awesome! Glad to help. I hope the rest of the project goes smoothly for you.

You should probably still put a switch in series with the ignition wire since it is intended to be a switched power input, but for testing purposes you can just connect it straight to your battery wire with no switch. So to summarize, for testing you should have the yellow and red wire from the...

I actually found the guy's original post and it sounds like he's trying to figure out where the amp's high level inputs are. BTW, not the best idea to create a new post to "bump" your original post. The high level inputs on this amp are the plugs on either side of the RCAs. The speaker...

The switch will just allow you to switch it on and off, like simulating a key turning the accessory circuits on and off, but if you connect it straight to 12V for testing the amp should just turn on. Do you have to press the power button on the remote to turn it on?

Oh my bad, I just pulled up the manual for the amp..looks like the blue wire is remote out to the other amp and the red wire is what turns the amp on so that should be tied in with your power wire to turn the amp on.

The remote wire is what turns the amp on. If you tie that in with your power wire the amp should turn on.

Just to be clear because I'm confused by something you said...you do have the remote wire hooked up to the amp you're testing right?

Well I was about to write something along the lines of "kids these days just want someone to give them the answers and not do the research themselves" but then I saw the OP is 47 so instead I'll say....Sir, with all due respect for my elders, please go to Google and type 'how to install a car...

Check continuity to ground on all the speaker wires at the amp (with wires disconnected from the amp). If that passes on all speakers, check resistance between positive and negative speaker wire for each speaker, this should closely match the listed impedance of the speaker.

Since everything is so close together you could also just measure resistance of battery and ground cables from the battery to the amps. Should be less the 0.5 ohms, probably much less than that since the runs are so short.

I would probably start by watching what the voltage does when you turn the system on. Measure it right at the amp inputs. If you see a significant voltage drop, run the same test at the battery. If the battery voltage stays solid then you have a problem with your power or ground wiring. Also...

Hook up a relay to the existing add-a-circuit. Relay coil only draws 150 mA so you only need a 1 A fuse. If you are using an SPDT relay, connect terminal 30 to constant 12V (use an inline fuse holder) and tap your amp turn-on and 12V sockets off of terminal 87. The wire from the add-a-circuit...

This post should help you out. It outlines step by step how to identify all the wires. https://mobileinstallguide.com/how-to-rewire-a-car-stereo-from-scratch/