Recent content by Skydronaut

Sometimes bad grounds do this. Sometimes you will get interference if a power line and an audio line run next to each other. Consider shielding your wires, tightening connections, seperating power and audio wires, re-doing your grounds, or even adding a filter cap (a patchwork fix imo) to your...

What is your voltage with the car running? Sometimes an alternator can charge just a tad too high for the amp, but running other systems can consume just enough power to bring the voltage down to the right level Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should use a multimeter (it's easy to find a really cheap one for this kind of application) to measure resistance in the positive and negative lines in the wire harness for your h/u. These should give near-zero ohm readings. Either your power or ground can be shot. If they are both reading...

Oh really? This is so different than what I expected! What is the reasoning behind this wiring design? I'd really like to know what this setup is sending power through Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The amp is a Kenwood Excelon xxv-02a. I don't see any identifying markings on the jvc subs, but wired in parallel (everything is already assembled), the terminal leads measure 2.4 ohms. Thanks a lot dragon breath! I'll be sure to use this webpage once I find out what the recommendation is for...

I like those harmony couplers a lot! Are you supposed to put shrink wrap around those? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, I'm trying to figure out the best way to wire my 2 12" JVC subs to my kenwood amp. The subs each have two inputs (two positive, two negative on each sub) Does each pair of inputs require its own channel from the amp, or should I wire one channel to two inputs in parallel? I drew a quick...

What did you end up doing, op? Curious Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wouldn't a capacitor be able to smooth out the signal to keep it from popping? Not sure about specs... Also, I heard that 1:1 transformers are used for smooth coupling as well. Does anyone else know more info about these ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want, you can buy a coupler. If you don't want to buy it, you can solder a proper lineman's splice and shrinkwrap it. http://youtu.be/BPrwUVEUPfc

Supply and ground are 4 awg. Kenwood kmm-108u h/u. Stock battery, stock alternator, 2003 Cube, no distribution block. I think the sub wires are around 10 or 12 awg, not sure. The wiring kit was a 4 awg kit, so I'm pretty sure the fuse is at least above 100A... I tested all the fuses the ge other...

I am absolutely certain I tested the dc voltage at the 200m range. Even if I'm only getting .0187vdc, I don't understand why it only gets voltage for a second before losing signal... Should I try measuring amperage to see if it's shorting somewhere, causing the voltage drop? Sent from my iPhone...

I measured the voltage on the power line when the car is put on accessory mode. At the 200m range, the dmm display reads 18.3 each time. Seems like too much voltage? After a second, the voltage drops back off to zero. When the car is turned off, a short reading of .7 is displayed, and drops off...

You need to check the fuse behind the h/u, and any fuses in the fuse boxes, for good measure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll check the voltage after work today (about eight hours from now). I guess I'll also check the resistance of the fuses for any unexpected ohms. Also, the electrical is wired pretty well. Most wires are properly installed under the trim and dash, and zip-tied in places where it could move...