Recent content by SGSeeker

Looking to pick up a couple of these if anyone has any - I haven't received responses to the postings (with no posts about being sold) of the last few sales of these things. Help me remove the Kappas I had to install when my other speakers died!

There is nowhere the wire could even be pinched - it runs in a big open void and is ziptied in place. The wire's fuse would burn fairly quickly if this were the case. Anyways, the amp was opened up and there isn't a single scorch mark anywhere and I guess all the culprit parts have been tested...

Nope, that was the first thing I checked which is when I noticed the smell. I also probed it and got 12v (edit: actually 12.1v) grounding to the neg and checking both the + and remote. Very odd issue. Kinda hard to kill an amp by only trying to power it up unless you do indeed put the wires in...

I went to plug my 1.1000 into the car and it made a nasty smell (without being plugged into any subs). I bench tested this thing prior and it worked fine. Only had power, ground, remote, and rca's but I never saw the thing on - upon close inspection it smelled funny. Now I have to pull this...

I'm thinking of either going with the Seas W18EX001 that still appear to do better than most others, or try to stuff W22EX001's in there and go with a 3 way setup in the front in the end (8", 4", 1"). These 8" 8ohm drivers seem like they'd enjoy receiving the power I've got to offer for the...

Anyways, what's a good ~7" speaker in the $200-300 range? I'm looking for something that can do 100hz~2KHz. It's hard to search for information on independent drivers. At least I only paid $100 for the AC's. Their suspension was too loose for my liking though.

The new amp isn't powering anything yet and not setup (gotta swap my eclipse sub amp out with the 1.1000 tomorrow). The amp wasn't messed with - it takes me an hour just to get to it myself with where it's mounted. I haven't touched the knob on the 2.150 yet so I can still power it up and find...

The wires were fine when I pulled the speakers out - other speakers fired up just fine. I haven't twisted them together to check the overall resistance but the ends were soldered onto the speakers rather than using quick disconnects. I solder everything I can when it comes to wiring.

I believe it was 100hz - it was a year and a half ago when I adjusted it. Maybe it was higher, who knows. I've got 50, 80, 100, 250, 500, and 1khz test tones on there. Wouldn't setting it up at a frequency too low cause something producing higher frequencies to be quieter? Anyways, the speakers...

It was a PDX 2.150 (have a 4.150 in there now). Gain was set conservatively with only test tones and a multimeter - 20v with a 100hz test tone.

SO I've had some Aurum Cantus AC-180F1's (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-412) running for a year but somewhere in there, the car had a huge drivetrain conversion so it was off the road for awhile. Some time last year the speakers just quit working - the both of them...

If I had a way to mount this, I'd be all over it. My 130A alt puts out next to nothing at 600rpm idle. Need 120 degree mounting holes!

When was this produced? I never see anything like that from anyone except new startup companies now days. Truly beautiful - simple yet built strong.

Question for everyone out there...is there a pulley available that multiplies the rotation by 1.5 or 2x before it transfers that energy into the alternator? I understand that it'd be more expensive, but if there is, something like this could be a solution? I have this same issue with an electric...

Nice price, too bad I don't have a use for a second and my current one is pretty new.