Recent content by RemlapaN

I purchased it July 5th, 2004, so technically it is 5 months out of warranty. - It was bought from an authorized dealer, but not installed by a JBL authorized installer (installer was Diamond / Eclipse authorized - so i figured they knew what they were doing), so it only came with a 12 month...

Dont have a pic handy, but... my JBL BPX2200.1 is toast, pulled the board out and about 9 of the voltage regulators on the back side of the board blew up (it smells REAL nice) Now everyones first question, is how - or why. I would tend to blame it on the installer (wasnt me, was done by a...

I dont like the music, it just does a good job for testing SQ of a system since it has a lot of instrumental, bass, vocals, etc.

I would need 3 of them to do anything useful... I have 4 pairs of 6.5" components, and a pair of 10" subs. Right now, i have 2 pairs of the comp's wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load, and the subs are in parallel bridged across the amp. So im actually using 7 channels right now...

Ohm'ed out the speakers, they are 4ohms at rest. Watched the wave on the scope, recorded the voltage just before clipping, then used W = V^2 / R. I know, I know... this isnt accurate since impedance changes based on cone position. But it should get me in the ballpark correct? Dont get me...

i was running off dual cranking batteries at the moment, so my supply voltage was probably 12.8, even if they rated at the typical 14.4V, thats only an 11% voltage drop. Even assuming it was rated at 17VDC, 12VDC is a 30% voltage drop, so wouldnt that mean I lose 30% of rated power, which should...

I just installed a pair of MA Audio HK-598's ( http://www.maaudio.com/productcatalog.cfm?class=47472 ) rated for 4 x 200wRMS @ 4ohms... And with a scope hooked up, I was getting clipping at 80w RMS running off the batteries (80w assuming there was a 4-ohm load). I bridged one channel, and...

LOL, yeah i was doing that, but as i was sitting there changing tracks to get different test tones playing, i was thinking "There HAS to be an easier way"... so i take it the short answer is "yes there is another way, but its not worth the time or price of equipment to do it"

one more question: Is there any way using a scope to see what your crossovers are set at? I set them by ear first, and then tweaked them alittle more, but I was wondering if you can use a scope to determine precisely where the rolloff begins? (Maybe using a square wave or something else?)

but drivetrain loss doesnt make a difference if they are using a chassis dyno and not using HP corrections... JMac's point is 600whp is 600whp, doesnt matter if you have 1 wheel or 20. Bhp (or flywheel hp) is different. My STi is 300bhp stock, but realistically its only ~235 at the wheels. If...

4 ohm subs, two of em wired in parallel. But in reality, whats the difference if i set it for 300w @ 2ohms, or 150w @ 4ohms, its the same reading.. ahh, i just realized i calculated it wrong above thanks for pointing my faulty math out. Make that 25V at the terminals.

ok, i did the whole search thing, read some stuff on bcae, and its all making sense. However, a few questions: I have a small handheld scope, which i plan on using to set amp gains. I found the clip point of the HU (playing sine waves and watching the scope). The amp i am using is a 4ch amp...

keeping the amp, not selling that. Bump for anyone interested in the C608GTI components, make me an offer...

While that is true, the reason an STi is noted as being very responsive is because it has the top mount intercooler. If you put a FMIC on a stock sti, you gain a few HP yes, but the car will not be as snappy. Reason: More piping results in a larger airspace to compress, so you get more turbo...

i remember seeing this photo floating around the STi message boards, im pretty sure it was a photochop... I like the 4-doors, more convenient for cramming crap into the back seat!