Recent content by MiniVanMan

This is how NOT to plagiarize. This is a quote from another forum. But really points out the ridiculousness of the present claims of AudioDave. Direct AudioDave quote.

Okay, so you've been spouting off on several forums now about how skilled, and experienced you are. In fact you even told several of us that if we "knew" who you were and what you've done for car audio that we would all bow down to you. I'm not going to weed through all the bull and find that...

Okay, when you guys are talking phase, you need to understand phase shifts behave much differently with higher frequencies than lower. If you guys want to do some math, here's a great article. http://www.moultonlabs.com/more/about_comb_filtering_phase_shift_and_polarity_reversal/ I don't want...

That would be called going active, or biamping if you're using passive crossovers. You do need to realize one thing. There are a lot of crossovers out there that need to have all outputs hooked up to the appropriate load. You can blow a crossover by leaving the circuit open.

Yeah, set your amp to high pass. As for your question. First you need to know the impedance of the tweeter the crossover was built for. Don't just assume it's 4 ohm. Make sure. Measure with a meter if you have to. Then we can suggest some tweeters for you. While you're waiting, read...

It really depends on how the set is designed overall. So, mostly it comes down to the crossover. Since companies don't tell us how the crossovers are designed, we usually just have to go with trial and error. However, it is safe to assume that many sets in the price range you're looking at...

The only thing that really matters is the "configuration". The rest is snake oil dribble, perpetuated by idiotic audiophiles with nothing better to spend their money on.

Instead of getting into a shouting match, as helo was really the only one with any useful information, take a look at this tutorial. It models up different crossovers, with different drivers, and shows how they are not compatible. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17429 I'm...

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-CERWIN-VEGA-EXL400-4-AMPLIFIER-2-16FT-ESOTERIC-RCA_W0QQitemZ180219228421QQihZ008QQcategoryZ39739QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Got a little secret for ya. Unfortunately I can't link to Ampguts right now as it seems to be down. However, if you look at the Cerwin...

The mid on the Pioneer set is top notch. It really could sell for much more money. The Hex drivers are decent, but sort of aging. You'll get good results from either. The tweeter in the Hex set is better, but the mid in the Pioneer set is better. If midbass is your concern, the Pioneer set...

There are a number of ways to accomplish this. But first let me lay out what going active really allows you to accomplish. It goes way beyond just setting your own crossover points. First is "Time Alignment". This allows you to adjust a time delay to every speaker so that it sounds like...

I'd have to agree. I can think of other options, but for what your asking, and the location you're looking to use, I think I'd go with the Peerless as well. The Seas L12RCY is a very nice driver itself, and definitely digs deep for a 4". However, being in the dash, adding the cone breakup...

Are you using any kind of baffle/spacer between the speaker and the door frame?? If not, use a 3/4" MDF baffle, and that will probably solve your problems.

The Seas Prestige (RNX) stuff is really good. Again it's 8 ohm though. They're pretty much night and day between the RS180 though. They will give you the midbass you're craving though. In other words, sacrifices all around. The Mach 6.5s are a good speaker. I don't think they're nearly as...

What you're experiencing with the Daytons when it comes to vocals is the extremely low distortion they exhibit. Frankly, though, I'm rather surprised you like them as much as you do in your current configuration. That all being said, in order to achieve that kind of low level distortion, and...