Recent content by longbedbob

I've started some other threads describing some issues that I'd be working through with my 2016 F150 and I finally got them all sorted. I was fighting several independent installation problems, but time. persistence and no small amount of money sorted them out. But I digress.... At the end of...

Final problem, static, resolved. Replaced Infinity Reference 704A amp with JL Audio RD 400/4. Replaced 2 ohm Infinity Kappa 6x9 coaxials with 4 ohm Focal 165KR components w/separate cross over. Either one or the other was the culprit, but that it could be that 2 ohm speakers are more...

Thanks. From what info I've found both are too deep. The trapezoidal shape means that the enclosure is only 3.5" deep at the top. I've thought about putting a 3/4" spacer on the front of the enclosure and going with the low volume JL, but then my rear seat won't fully latch in the upright...

Ford F150 Supercab. Because I use the rear floor, I'm limited to the area behind the rear seat and 2/3s of that is reserved for amps, fuse holders, jack, etc. Here's my current set up: JL Audio JX500/1 (300watts @ 4 ohms and 500 watts @ 2 ohms) Rockford Fosgate R2S 1x10 sub/enclosure...

I have an inexpensive battery tester from Amazon. It has settings for CCA, in/out of the car and, more relevant, the type of battery. So long as the correct setting is used, they should be able to check any lead acid, AGM or gel battery. And, yes, having the incorrect battery type entered...

Additional problem identified: Sound Ordnance sub amp had a defect allowing the slight alternator whine to permeate through the entire system. Replaced with a JL Audio JX 500/1 and that problem has disappeared. Only remaining issue is some hissing that can't be heard when the truck is...

Amp grounds are 1 foot or so, but screwed (x3) to a sanded spot in the cab floor. If I stretch out to 2 - 2 1/2' then I can tap a proper ground post. Head unit ground is the factory harness, so who knows? Wire is on the thin side. I've thought about getting some 10 gauge wire and running it...

Problem was traced to a loose terminal lug at the interior fuse panel. It has probably been finger tight since the day it rolled off the assembly line. I still have static, though, which may be related to amp grounds. Given that the factory wiring is finally the way it was designed to be, I...

Passenger side fuse box ground post was only finger tight. New unit didn't fix it. It was only by checking the resistance at various points did I finally get a clue what was happening. My grounds (fasteners to the cab floor) read 0 ohms while the factory head unit ground to amp ground read 7...

Hey, folks. After getting some ground and power issues sorted, I'm finally able to play with the Kenwood in my F150. However, I still have lots of static when I plug in my iPhone and Apple CarPlay loads. For troubleshooting's sake, I've got the phone plugged directly into the head unit's USB...

You, me and my wallet. LOL.

I've been working on this issue for a couple of weeks now, gradually upgrading components in an attempt to get it to go away. After an amp and speaker upgrade to the base factory stereo, I had: 1. Static. 2. Whine. 3. A radio station in the background with the radio off. Seriously. I...

Aha!!! So, I'm think to myself, "Bob, go out and take a picture for these folks and show them just how good your grounds are." While I was out there, I proceeded to check one last thing... By flashlight, I returned the amp ground to where I had it previously inside the cab. I reconnected the...

OK, folks. I am clearly fighting more than one problem. Connecting a relay for accessory power and wiring my constant voltage direct to the battery has cured my static ills. Curiously, a noise filter on the accessory supply solved it as well. However, I still have alternator whine. Both the...

There's also a battery management system (load shedding) and a voltage quality module, I believe. The old adage about an open above or a short below could also be in play. There's a cubic butt ton of modules, lights and accessories that get power when the key is moved to the accessory position...