Not from what I understood, but maybe. And thanks for the site. The site says I could carry about 1600 watts without voltage drop with the wire length.. sigh the fuse was still way too small though, says 150 max amps on the wire.
Edit: Not very sure on the wire run, I would say not much over...
Ok.. so I got my sub/amp/cd player all installed for me because I was too lazy to mess with it. I paid about $140 bucks for everything (amp kit + labor). I had the rest of the stuff. Everything worked fine, it pounded hard and sounded great. One of the first things I found that bothered me...
Id say more powerful, would you rather clip your amp and destroy both the amp and sub, or overpower your sub and just destroy it. Of course you could avoid both by setting gains right :P
It feels like the pressure in my car is SO much stronger when i roll up all windows and such and leave the middle trunk-opening open in the back seat. My car seals the sound really well. Even cranked up you can't hear much outside the car with the windows up. But if you sit inside you get...
Chances are the 200 amp alternator will be plenty even with both amps. I think those are 120 max each. And if there is some insane reason why you'd have the volume near the max on both of them.. then sure you could experience a voltage drop, but I'm still thinking your ears are going to limit...
So it'd probably be easier to basically have a separate electrical system just for the stereo... hmm interesting, but what if the stock alt can't handle the stereo's current pull, hence if I had them both hooked up they could err work together.
He's saying because you're getting it from a junkyard. I've actually thought about this too. Why not add on another stock alt (110 amps) for about $180 on the net instead of dropping 300-400 for a 200 amp one.
The hifonics is cheap and will definitely do the job. With the tsunamis, you're comparing 3000 watts to 3600 watts. Again at that level, it might be hard to tell the difference, but if you're competing bigger is always better.