Recent content by Camer138

Different box. Still went sealed and the exact cubic feet recommended by jbl though, as my previous box was

Just wanted to update. I got my Gto1014, the sub made a HUGE difference compared to the GTO804, and the 1014 hasn't even been broken in yet. The notes seem to reach both higher and lower. The higher bass notes on the 804 were too low in volume to hear and I was missing out on way too many low...

@beatin. I'm not looking to compete with the ground pounders. Just looking to fill those lower notes out a bit better and add a slight bit of volume. I listen to metal, and lots and lots of radiohead.. among other bands in a similar genre as radiohead. Not looking to **** off the neighbourhood...

Thanks for the input guys. I just got back from my car, did some tweaking after reading some articles online. Things can get a quite a bit louder now without the clacking. I had the gain a bit too high. But I think the 10 will still do me good for reaching those lower notes that the 804 cant...

sealed

I probably should have posted this before I placed the order.. but I was getting impatient.. First of all I drive a Toyota Matrix, your standard sized hatchback 5dr car. I currently have a JBL GTO1004 amp bridged for 300w powering my GTO804 sub(200rms). The sound quality is great but it is not...

I am running some JBL p660c components off a JBL gto1004 amp and Kenwood 348u head unit. 90w RMS speakers 150w from amp(gain only 1/3 of the way, but was even happening back when i used to have my gain at almost half) No EQ at the head unit. I noticed this problem within the first couple...

my amp is 320w at 4 ohms.. would that be too much for an 8 inch?

I am working with very limited space here.. I plan to put the sub behind the passenger seat in my toyota matrix. I am going strictly for SQ here, I don't care for SPL. I'm a Metal/Rock kind of guy. My problem due to limited space is the enclosure size and I just want to know what you guys think...

What are your guys' thoughts on this one? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1400W-JBL-GTO...item46088fcb34 would the .7 cubic feet be too small for a 10"? Here it shows the specs using it with a .75 box.. http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/.../GTO1014TD.pdf

on a budget like mine where can i find a properly designed box like that? I was just thinking I'd get a small sealed box at future shop or best buy just big enough for the sub as i have limited space in my car

why is it that you guys both suggest ported? From what I've read around the web, the general consensus seems to be that ported is for SPL which is something I don't want alot of for my sound.. I need accuracy. Imagine listening to this: would ported really be a good choice?

First, I'm a newb at this stuff, hence why I'm asking these questions. I currently have a 4 channel JBL GTO1004 going into JBL P660c components in the front(these are running at 2ohms). I have 2 channels left on my amp which I can bridge at 4 ohms for 320w RMS for a sub. Now here are my...

I've had my new setup installed for about a week now. Kenwood 348u HU JBL p660c components up front stock rears JBL GTO1004 amp It sounds great and up until 3 days ago it had no problems at all. But then I noticed the left speakers(not sure if this includes the rear speakers) cut out...

thanks.. and how about the need for components to be amplified and not coaxials? that still stumps me.. and being a car audio noob and all I want to learn this stuff!