Recent content by betteraudio

Alright, well just in case this thread gets buried, shoot this info over to me in an email, and I will work on it later today. Just had a wisdom tooth pulled, and I'm a little out of it right now.

Email me at bart@ (myusername).com I can help you out, and/or build it for you, and I'm in MD too.

Email me. bart@(myusername).com

Start with what dimensions you need the box to fit within, then someone can evaluate it and see what's possible. "A small box" is very subjective.

Well, I'm in DC Metro area, not DFW, but I do specialize in designing and building sub boxes. I also favor birch, and am building a double-chamber tri-vented box for a W7 this week already. Shoot me an email at bart@(myusername).com with your max dimensions and what kind of box/sound you're...

I can probably help with this. Email at bart@(myusername).com

Sub up, port side will work okay. When you get into considering the remaining volume of airspace in the trunk, you're starting to get into the territory of designing a bandpass using the rest of the trunk as one chamber, which can in some cases yield incredible results. Depending on the type...

Can do. Email me dim's of space available for enclosure and the woofer specs, and I can draw you something up in autocad. Hard to see on my end, but "Email me" is actually a link to my email address.

I think I can help on this one. I designed bandpass boxes for customers when I worked tech support and R&D for Savard about half a lifetime ago. I got to see firsthand a very good example of just how effective a good bandpass design can be for SPL, in Lufkin, TX back sometime around '94...

Yes, it is perfectly okay, you just need to get as accurate a measurement as possible of the pathlength down the middle of the elbow(s) and factor into overall port length.

Replied via email.

Attach backing blocks or strips to each panel before you put them in the car, spaced from the edges so that the blocks sit flush up against the adjoining panels. Then you will have joints you can screw or nail together from the inside. As for the glue, I'd strongly recommend gorilla glue, or any...

Best bet will be to model them up. Send me the driver parameters and I'll see what will work for you. bart@(myusername).com

Most terminal cups, in my experience, use the .250" connectors. There is always the option to solder the wires to the tabs, though you may want to remove the lugs from the plastic housing, and then reinstall them after you've finished your soldering.

There is a good possibility that I can help you accomplish both objectives, but it depends greatly on both the particular woofers and the car. Email me at bart@(myusername).com with the details of what woofers you'll be using and what car they're going in, and I'll see what can be done.