Jeremy11
Junior Member
Is there such a thing? A stereo that is clear and sounds good but also loud? Something like a hybrid of the 2?
yep, thats where decent PA style raw drivers and a very tunable DSP comes into playIs there such a thing? A stereo that is clear and sounds good but also loud? Something like a hybrid of the 2?
huge cone area, SQ enclosure tuning, based around cabin peak frequency and subwoofer TS parameters with lots of watts. for an SUV lets say at least 4 15s walled on 10k. heavy DSP action and lots of midbass cone area talking about 12s in your door with sensitivity levels higher than 94-95 db, 4-6.5 dedicated midranges on your A pillars or lower door panels(shielded from the midbass) and tweeters up top, can go with some 92 db sensitivity or higher tweets try to avoid super tweets, if you do go supers, get alphard, they are the smoothest super tweets i've heard to date. It'll basically 3 way active front stage usually needs two 4 channel amps. One bridged to the midbass, the other for mid and tweeter at least 125+ watts rms per channel and a fk ton more for bridged. You always want more output than you ever need so you can just lower the volume down and keep everything heat/stress free which usually means distortion free and when you need to show someone up, you can send that **** and fk em up at your leisure. You can always lower the sub level down till it blends with the midbass. Key important part is MIDBASS which most spl setups have ZERO of.Is there such a thing? A stereo that is clear and sounds good but also loud? Something like a hybrid of the 2?
how do you really feel about the dayton dsp?Jeffdachef said:huge cone area, SQ enclosure tuning, based around cabin peak frequency and subwoofer TS parameters with lots of watts. for an SUV lets say at least 4 15s walled on 10k. heavy DSP action and lots of midbass cone area talking about 12s in your door with sensitivity levels higher than 94-95 db, 4-6.5 dedicated midranges on your A pillars or lower door panels(shielded from the midbass) and tweeters up top, can go with some 92 db sensitivity or higher tweets try to avoid super tweets, if you do go supers, get alphard, they are the smoothest super tweets i've heard to date. It'll basically 3 way active front stage usually needs two 4 channel amps. One bridged to the midbass, the other for mid and tweeter at least 125+ watts rms per channel and a fk ton more for bridged. You always want more output than you ever need so you can just lower the volume down and keep everything heat/stress free which usually means distortion free and when you need to show someone up, you can send that **** and fk em up at your leisure. You can always lower the sub level down till it blends with the midbass. Key important part is MIDBASS which most spl setups have ZERO of.
A DSP is vital. Get a dayton audio dsp. Sh*ts absolutely bonkers and amazing, forget any mention of head units, the dayton DSP even sh*ts on my 80 prs which is a known audiophile head unit with good SQ. Shits on as in 80 prs fully tuned, vs dayton out of the box, the dayton sounds better with no eq work and some basic crossover points.
makes the rockford dsr1 DSP look like an absolute joke. This dayton dsp is probably one of the best upgrades anyone can ever do to their setup. Even if you have a nice pioneer/kenwood double din.how do you really feel about the dayton dsp?
I was on the fence about getting a Dayton dsp because I already have a pioneer with active crossovers but I think you have talked me into trying it.makes the rockford dsr1 DSP look like an absolute joke. This dayton dsp is probably one of the best upgrades anyone can ever do to their setup. Even if you have a nice pioneer/kenwood double din.
just make sure you go through the blutetooth dongle to dsp. going RCA to the Dayton DSP will result in some garbage @ss sound. Basically if you go the dsp, you are eliminating the head unit out of the equation completely or else you are still stuck with the head unit's DAC.I was on the fence about getting a Dayton dsp because I already have a pioneer with active crossovers but I think you have talked me into trying it.
just make sure you go through the blutetooth dongle to dsp. going RCA to the Dayton DSP will result in some garbage @ss sound. Basically if you go the dsp, you are eliminating the head unit out of the equation completely or else you are still stuck with the head unit's DAC.
pretty much.So using the rcas in my dayton dsp is a waste of time....? And Bluetooth is the only way to go
They should allow the DSP usb port to accept usb 2.0/3.0 drives or Bluetooth. Bluetooth has come a long way but has its limitations still. I would take usb wired device over RCA and Bluetooth. That is just me though and my limited experience. However, I find it hard to believe Bluetooth over RCA unless your streaming device is top notch. What revision of bluetooth is the source may I ask? It has to be supporting a higher standard to get the use, 2018 was when bluetooth started to turn around so unless your phone or bluetooth device supports the better standard it may be a trial and error to see what sounds best.pretty much.
lossless files on a usb or store bought CD from my 80 prs head unit stand alone or head unit low level or high level to the DSP soounds worse than spotify premium bluetooth streaming on the dsp dongle. Just to give some perspective. The RCAs are louder but more distorted and harsh. The bluetooth is still loud with some minor gain adjustments but absolutely fking smooth like butter sound even if you have sh*tty speakers.
Yea the dayton dsp uses Bluetooth 4.0 aptx so the sound quality suppose to be near or equal to cd quality or so they claim...well i tried it with my phone with flac files and it didnt sound too bad at allThey should allow the DSP usb port to accept usb 2.0/3.0 drives or Bluetooth. Bluetooth has come a long way but has its limitations still. I would take usb wired device over RCA and Bluetooth. That is just me though and my limited experience. However, I find it hard to believe Bluetooth over RCA unless your streaming device is top notch. What revision of bluetooth is the source may I ask? It has to be supporting a higher standard to get the use, 2018 was when bluetooth started to turn around so unless your phone or bluetooth device supports the better standard it may be a trial and error to see what sounds best.
Edit: Or maybe this Dayton DSP does have some magic buried inside of it to let it compensate..?
Its more in the lines of when you are going head unit to DSP, you have too many things in the signal line and too much sound colouration from both sources, yes a pioneer head unit will sound different from a kenwood or clarion or alpine out the box flat and you subject that to the dayton's sound signature too leads to some bad distortion just from pure internal DAC colouration of sound. In all kinds of testing with all 3 setups I've installed this dayton DSP in, the bluetooth dongle is the best smoothest sound quality by far. The dongle is just bluetooth 4.0 but supports aptx and the clients phones and my personal phone all support bluetooth 5.0 and qualcomm aptx HD , iphone 8, galaxy note 8 and one plus 6t which actually triggers when connected to the dsp. There's no audio difference going from the Iphone to my one plus on one setup and no difference from note 8 to my one plus as long as we dont mess with any EQ apps on the phone.They should allow the DSP usb port to accept usb 2.0/3.0 drives or Bluetooth. Bluetooth has come a long way but has its limitations still. I would take usb wired device over RCA and Bluetooth. That is just me though and my limited experience. However, I find it hard to believe Bluetooth over RCA unless your streaming device is top notch. What revision of bluetooth is the source may I ask? It has to be supporting a higher standard to get the use, 2018 was when bluetooth started to turn around so unless your phone or bluetooth device supports the better standard it may be a trial and error to see what sounds best.
Edit: Or maybe this Dayton DSP does have some magic buried inside of it to let it compensate..?
just like how you should not mix different subs brands and sizes in a car, its the exact same thing for tweeters. Use the better one of the two and get rid of the other.Just my Dayton DSP in the mail today. Gonna hook it up both ways to see the difference in sq. Question I have is, if I have imaging tweeters along with a set of regular tweets should I keep them running passive and only the driver and main tweet active or run all active? Not sure how I would wire all active with only a 4 channel amp.