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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Not SQ but not SPL?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8666878" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>huge cone area, SQ enclosure tuning, based around cabin peak frequency and subwoofer TS parameters with lots of watts. for an SUV lets say at least 4 15s walled on 10k. heavy DSP action and lots of midbass cone area talking about 12s in your door with sensitivity levels higher than 94-95 db, 4-6.5 dedicated midranges on your A pillars or lower door panels(shielded from the midbass) and tweeters up top, can go with some 92 db sensitivity or higher tweets try to avoid super tweets, if you do go supers, get alphard, they are the smoothest super tweets i've heard to date. It'll basically 3 way active front stage usually needs two 4 channel amps. One bridged to the midbass, the other for mid and tweeter at least 125+ watts rms per channel and a fk ton more for bridged. You always want more output than you ever need so you can just lower the volume down and keep everything heat/stress free which usually means distortion free and when you need to show someone up, you can send that **** and fk em up at your leisure. You can always lower the sub level down till it blends with the midbass. Key important part is MIDBASS which most spl setups have ZERO of. </p><p></p><p>A DSP is vital. Get a dayton audio dsp. Sh*ts absolutely bonkers and amazing, forget any mention of head units, the dayton DSP even sh*ts on my 80 prs which is a known audiophile head unit with good SQ. Shits on as in 80 prs fully tuned, vs dayton out of the box, the dayton sounds better with no eq work and some basic crossover points.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8666878, member: 650438"] huge cone area, SQ enclosure tuning, based around cabin peak frequency and subwoofer TS parameters with lots of watts. for an SUV lets say at least 4 15s walled on 10k. heavy DSP action and lots of midbass cone area talking about 12s in your door with sensitivity levels higher than 94-95 db, 4-6.5 dedicated midranges on your A pillars or lower door panels(shielded from the midbass) and tweeters up top, can go with some 92 db sensitivity or higher tweets try to avoid super tweets, if you do go supers, get alphard, they are the smoothest super tweets i've heard to date. It'll basically 3 way active front stage usually needs two 4 channel amps. One bridged to the midbass, the other for mid and tweeter at least 125+ watts rms per channel and a fk ton more for bridged. You always want more output than you ever need so you can just lower the volume down and keep everything heat/stress free which usually means distortion free and when you need to show someone up, you can send that **** and fk em up at your leisure. You can always lower the sub level down till it blends with the midbass. Key important part is MIDBASS which most spl setups have ZERO of. A DSP is vital. Get a dayton audio dsp. Sh*ts absolutely bonkers and amazing, forget any mention of head units, the dayton DSP even sh*ts on my 80 prs which is a known audiophile head unit with good SQ. Shits on as in 80 prs fully tuned, vs dayton out of the box, the dayton sounds better with no eq work and some basic crossover points. [/QUOTE]
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Not SQ but not SPL?
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