Speaker terminals

Mr FaceCaser

CarAudio.com Regular
So my new gp box is awaiting shipment and I have everything for the box. The only thing I forgot was speaker terminals but I saw they make you lose power so how would you wire your amp to the subs? Would you just run it straight to the amp? Would use speaker terminals? Or do you have other ways of doing it?
 
So my new gp box is awaiting shipment and I have everything for the box. The only thing I forgot was speaker terminals but I saw they make you lose power so how would you wire your amp to the subs? Would you just run it straight to the amp? Would use speaker terminals? Or do you have other ways of doing it?
It wouldn't be a noticeable drop. Gp and smd made good terminals
 
I just drill holes the same size as the wire and caulk the inside around the wire.


wiring.jpg
 
I have used these in the past.

Supreme Binding Post Banana Jack Power Speaker Terminal​

Parts Express
Part #260-314

You can use any that you like, really. The drain is barely measurable. No more, no less, than fused power line interruptions, the length of the terminal is just too short to really make a difference. I do solder the wire behind right up close to the huts on the rear of the standard terminals though.

You can also just use a heavy spade on the rear too, they will all work.


Parts Express Gold Binding Post Banana Jack 5-Way Speaker Terminal​

Parts Express
Part #260-302

I use these so I can change it up from 4 ohms to 1 ohm if I wanted to. Use or don't use the breakers depending on the load I want.


Parts Express Bi-Amp Speaker Terminal Cup Gold Binding Post Banana Jack​

Parts Express
Part #260-281

We're talking about maybe an inch of right around 8 gauge transfer material, not an issue.

THese are pretty nice as well.


Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin Nickel​

Dayton Audio
Part #091-1247

I have done as others have done too, just run them through the box and onto the amp, only issue is, if you want to move it around, you have to disconnect everything from the amp, kind of a pain,
 
Last edited:
I have used these in the past.


You can use any that you like, really. The drain is barley measurable. No more, no less, than fused power line interruptions, the length of the terminal is just too short to really make a difference. I do solder the wire behind right up close to the huts on the rear of the standard terminals though.

You can also just use a heavy spade on the rear too, they will all work.


I use these so I can change it up from 4 ohms to 1 ohm if I wanted to. Use or don't use the breakers depending on the load I want.


We're talking about maybe an inch of right around 8 gauge transfer material, not an issue.

THese are pretty nice as well.


I have done as others have done too, just run them through the box and onto the amp, only issue is, if you want to move it around, you have to disconnect everything from the amp, kind of a pain,
Your links just take me to the home page
 
Dang I said no to gp terminals when I got the box
If i'm not mistaken, GP offers Steve Meade Designs type terminals and I'm not a fan. Stainless steel is a lousy conductor, brass is better, copper is best (well, silver is technically, but $$$)

Stainless steel is a poor conductor of electricity, with an electrical resistance of 7.496×10−7Ω⋅m, which is more than 40 times worse than copper. This is because stainless steel is an alloy, typically composed of iron, chromium, nickel, and other elements, which can interfere with the flow of electricity.
 
If i'm not mistaken, GP offers Steve Meade Designs type terminals and I'm not a fan. Stainless steel is a lousy conductor, brass is better, copper is best (well, silver is technically, but $$$)

Stainless steel is a poor conductor of electricity, with an electrical resistance of 7.496×10−7Ω⋅m, which is more than 40 times worse than copper. This is because stainless steel is an alloy, typically composed of iron, chromium, nickel, and other elements, which can interfere with the flow of electricity.
The last one you recommend are nickel should I look for sliver ones or copper ones
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

Yes. Only thing is the leads will be encased in resin. Keep in mind that this is an assumption.
3
135
Speaker ratings are generally a thermal/mechanical limitation of the drivers. Music is dynamic, not continuous. During quiet periods a song, you...
4
166
dragon.breath, Many thanks for taking the time to help me out. It is very much appreciated and my small brain can understand it now. I have...
6
342

About this thread

Mr FaceCaser

CarAudio.com Regular
Thread starter
Mr FaceCaser
Joined
Location
Charlotte
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
32
Views
866
Last reply date
Last reply from
Doxquzme
IMG_1154.png

GoldCountryCA

    May 5, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_1153.png

GoldCountryCA

    May 5, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top