RE SR 10 @ 600WRMS but still not responsive

I had the same problem but my problems was that I had my sub wired wrong....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I guess i'll make it 350 or 400... I'm starting to think maybe i should've gone ported... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Do not listen to him.
You can listen to whoever you choose...

here is my 2 cents...

It sounds like you were expecting alot of output from this single 10. Even if you weren't, a relatively weak 10 is going to have a hard time keeping up with the rest of your system in certain applications.

I like sealed enclosures, but there are some things you should consider...

Going with a single 10, to get more output from it you'll most effectively probably want a ported enclosure.

And yes specifically with a sub like this... in a sealed enclosure you are more likely to blow the cone out before you fry the coil...

Your output depends more on the Excursion of the sub than in a ported, meaning to get a higher SPL you have to put your sub at higher risk of mechanical failure. Likely, with the single 10 you'll probably eventually get a big enough itch that you crank it up just enough to kill it in a sealed.

 
Going with a single 10, to get more output from it you'll most effectively probably want a ported enclosure.
This I will agee with

And yes specifically with a sub like this... in a sealed enclosure you are more likely to blow the cone out before you fry the coil...

Only if the box is too big

Your output depends more on the Excursion of the sub than in a ported, meaning to get a higher SPL you have to put your sub at higher risk of mechanical failure. Likely, with the single 10 you'll probably eventually get a big enough itch that you crank it up just enough to kill it in a sealed.
Mechanical failure will happen in an ideal ported box with less power than an ideal sealed box.

 

Sealed = more cone control. Sealed less idiot proof and more forgiving.

 
I had the same problem but my problems was that I had my sub wired wrong....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I'm pretty sure i wired it correctly at parallel. I'm thinking i might be too conservative with the gain for fear of frying the sub.

You can listen to whoever you choose...
I guess this is where the bass knob comes in handy (?)

I'll set the gain at 350wrms with the bass knob turned to 0 giving me some flex for when i want to increase the gain. What do you think?

 
that small box is whats hold'n you back..... needs to be bigger and ported!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
It sounds like you were expecting alot of output from this single 10. Even if you weren't, a relatively weak 10 is going to have a hard time keeping up with the rest of your system in certain applications.
I was expecting deeper punchier bass but right now its only responsive with bass tracks.

I keep my LPF at bout 80hz
That's where its still at. What stuff do you listen to and is it responsive to deep bass?

small sealed enclosures=more power to get output.
So go ahead and hit the the sub with 500wrms at max volume when tuning the gain?

that small box is whats hold'n you back..... needs to be bigger and ported!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
Dont give that sub 500w, you will notice that the cone will get VERY HOT and then boom, subwoofer no more.

It sounds like you are expecting too much out of a 10" sub. Even a 10" R at 400w sounds minimal compared to a 12" at 200w.

Set gains ACCORDING to the rms of the sub, also lay off the bass boost at all costs, that can make a 300w clean signal turn into 400 - 500w very very fast with just 4db increase of boost and i have seen my friends blow the sub from that.

If you are not happy with the sub then either go ported or upgrade to a 12"

 
Dont give that sub 500w, you will notice that the cone will get VERY HOT and then boom, subwoofer no more.

It sounds like you are expecting too much out of a 10" sub. Even a 10" R at 400w sounds minimal compared to a 12" at 200w.

Set gains ACCORDING to the rms of the sub, also lay off the bass boost at all costs, that can make a 300w clean signal turn into 400 - 500w very very fast with just 4db increase of boost and i have seen my friends blow the sub from that.

If you are not happy with the sub then either go ported or upgrade to a 12"
Maybe i was expecting too much from a 10"... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I'll make the most of my current setup and save for an upgrade. Hopefully i'm content after all the tweaking i'm going to be doing tomorrow thanks to you guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm still confused as to how much WRMS i should power sub. So far its been mixed between "ok to overpower" and "stick to sub's rating"... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Maybe i was expecting too much from a 10"... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
I'll make the most of my current setup and save for an upgrade. Hopefully i'm content after all the tweaking i'm going to be doing tomorrow thanks to you guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm still confused as to how much WRMS i should power sub. So far its been mixed between "ok to overpower" and "stick to sub's rating"... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
Definitely stay off the bass boost, like i said in the sealed enclosure i wouldn't risk 400-500... even though your coil might handle it your subs suspension may not.

If your output isn't sufficient, the most cost effective fix will probably be a ported box.

In a sealed enclosure output is mostly derived from excursion. And your subs rated RMS in the sealed enclosure includes the fact that going past that power level puts your sub at risk of mechanical failure.

In a ported enclosure, the closer to the tuning frequency, the more efficient the sub is, and the less excursion it takes to yield the same output. In this way, the proper use of a ported enclosure enables you to overcome mechanical limits of the sub while increasing the power closer to the subs thermal capacity.

In short, it's louder and with a proper, low tuning can sound just as good or better in many cases as a sealed.

 
Look.. Don't over power your sub to 400-500... Rf is underrated as it is..(also last time i was in math 1/4 of 600 is not 300... FYI you are only feeding it half the power it wants/needs) what is the voltage of your headunit outputs.. 2? 4? 6? 8? also.. what kind of vehicle is this in.. maybe i missed it.. do you have the polarity mixed up? ported will give you a louder deeper response.. sealed is good for quick thumping bass not so much boomy..

 
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