no good at car audio so why not build a system

[helot]

I understand the basics but will need some guidance in areas many of you may consider elementary. Be gentle.

I am designing for a 1998 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) which means two things. My alternator ***** and I have virtually unlimited space for an enclosure. The goal is to relive my 90's era bass addiction while keeping the project under $1000. Seems the best place to start is with a pair of Savard D4 or D2 10's:

RAP 10" v2 D2_D4 | SAVARD Speakers

www.savardspeakersystems.com

They are rated for 750 watts RMS each (stable down to 450 and up to 850) and at $250 for a pair I think that decision is solid but I am open to suggestions. The first question after making a decision on woofs is what to power them with? I am leaning toward the STINGER Audio MT20001 because, well, it's cheap but now I am falling into the rabbit hole.

This is a mono channel amp that according to some folks seems to meet the rated power, at least enough that I don't feel it would underpower the set, but I am not entirely comfortable with one channel for two woofers. Something about that doesn't seem ideal. I don't want to run amps but am trying to get reasonable watts per dollar with some level of build quality.

This having been said, I am now looking forward to getting roasted in the thread. Have at thee.

Click to read more...

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I understand the basics but will need some guidance in areas many of you may consider elementary. Be gentle.

I am designing for a 1998 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) which means two things. My alternator ***** and I have virtually unlimited space for an enclosure. The goal is to relive my 90's era bass addiction while keeping the project under $1000. Seems the best place to start is with a pair of Savard D4 or D2 10's:

RAP 10" v2 D2_D4 | SAVARD Speakers

www.savardspeakersystems.com

They are rated for 750 watts RMS each (stable down to 450 and up to 850) and at $250 for a pair I think that decision is solid but I am open to suggestions. The first question after making a decision on woofs is what to power them with? I am leaning toward the STINGER Audio MT20001 because, well, it's cheap but now I am falling into the rabbit hole.

This is a mono channel amp that according to some folks seems to meet the rated power, at least enough that I don't feel it would underpower the set, but I am not entirely comfortable with one channel for two woofers. Something about that doesn't seem ideal. I don't want to run amps but am trying to get reasonable watts per dollar with some level of build quality.

This having been said, I am now looking forward to getting roasted in the thread. Have at thee.

If this is for starters, that is a decent start. I'd personally go the dual 2 ohm wire each sub in series to 4 ohms and then in parallel to a 2 ohm load. The stinger amps are decent enough as budget aps go. It's rated at 1500 watts @ 2 ohms so that works out perfect. For $50 more, go with daul RAP 12" Dual 2 ohm VC units, lots more output using the same stinger amp.

Here is the perfect box to get - already tuned to 33hz with a double baffle $294 Shipped.

12" Dual High Output XL Glue it & Screw It Sub Enclosure

GP Car Audio is a manufacturer of many USA Made ðºð¸ car audio products. We are also a distributor for several top Audio brands including Sundown Audio, XS Power, and Deaf Bonce.

gpcaraudio.com

That leaves roughly $200 for the rest of the Jeep, what about a small 4 channel and some speakers?

$85

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PCZBZW5/?tag=caraudiocom-20

$90

Tweeters in the dash and 5.25" midbass in the doors

VSP525KIT 750W Peak (250W RMS) 5.25" V-Series 2-Way Component Speakers with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 5-1/4" NVX V-Series 2-way Component System Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 750 watts per set / 375 watts on each side RMS: 250 watts per set / 125 watts on each side Polypropylene cone material Nitrile Butadiene Rubber NBR speaker surround 1" Silk Dome Tweeters CEA-2031...

nvx.com

$79 for the tailgate

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6EXE5Y/?tag=caraudiocom-20

A little over budget but complete. Add another $100 for wiring and fused distribution,

Game on!

 

[helot]

I can likely save a bit on the enclosure. Savard gives free plans if you buy direct from them and I am already going to be bedlining the Jeep so should have enough extra for the box. I may even be able to get some fancy router work in there though I haven't worked a lot with MDF so who knows. I can build a decent cube at the very least.

I am looking for a semi-retro feel so going single DIN, maybe Alpine or Pioneer. I like knobs and buttons so can't be convinced to go touch screen. Figure a cheap head is going to require some additional UMPH for the mids/tweets.

I have the mounting depth for these in the stock rear position:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096FQBTYJ/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Been trying to search for 5.25" with a max depth of 2.5" for the doors and can run separate tweets but might just go coaxial to save the brain ache and need to locate the crossovers. I should check the true depth though as I don't want them having zero clearance in the door.

One issue I know will come up is the alternator. The jeeps are notoriously weak in that department. May not be an issue but could be I can barely roll the windows down when the volume is up.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Look into getting a Pioneer at $199 w/knobs and BT too!

Rare Pioneer DEH-P980BT Head Unit Read Description | eBay

I have a nice condition pioneer p980bt head unit. The unit has been tested and works but has pixel burn out in the middle of the screen. It also comes with some extras and remote. I’m selling the unit as is due to the screen.

www.ebay.com

Whichever set of subs you decide on, feel free to let me know. Give me the dimensions that you are able to work with in the space it is going, I'll be happy to give you the box build configuration. AS for the GP listed, that sight is a great resource for box design specs and port areas sizing for a given set of subs even if you end up building your own.

As for the Recoils, if you must, those are very cheap and will likely be for wanting with the subs overpowering them in a heartbeat if you use the HU to power them. Cross the 4 channels HP filter at 100hz to be safe.

In the rear tail

RCX525 Echo Series 5.25" Coaxial Speakers - Recoil Audio

Lightweight thermal-formed Polypropylene cones provide high output and accurate frequency reproduction. Nitrile butadiene rubber surrounds provide durability and deeper mid-bass impact. Featuring a Tetoron dome tweeter with a built-in crossover for smooth & fatigue-free highs. Ferrite magnet...

www.recoilaudio.com

in the doors and dash

REM525 Echo Series 5.25" Component Speaker System - Recoil Audio

Lightweight thermal-formed Polypropylene cones enable faster midrange response. Surround/Cone Coupling utilizes a high temp adhesive which assure the cone and surrounds do not separate in high power uses. Nitrile butadiene rubber surrounds provide durability and deeper mid-bass impact. 1” silk...

www.recoilaudio.com

Get that amp that i listed above or better yet this one - you're gonna need it.

DI800.4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1,500 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, MOSFET Power Supply, Bridgeable - Recoil Audio

Features: Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier, 1500 Watts Max Power, RMS 185 Watts x 4@2 Ohm; RMS 125 Watts x 4@4Ohm; RMS (Bridged): 360 Watts x 2@4Ohm; Peak Power: 370 Watts x 4@2Ohm Featuring a high-speed MOSFET power supply, premium grade internal components, as well as 4-way protection circuitry...

www.recoilaudio.com

 

[helot]

I assume this is the sub wiring diagram you were referencing:

https://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/2_2ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Not sure why that one doesn't show up, but yeah, series parallel for dual 2 ohms get you to .5, 2 or 8 ohms and the 2 ohm with that stinger amp will be a good combination.

 

[helot]

Not sure if you can answer this, but I am not able to find info on it in the spec sheets. What kind of draw will those two amps have? I think the stock alternator is 90A and the max without having a custom one spun is 120A. There are mods to get a Dodge Durango alternator to fit which will push 160A. Just needing a ballpark so I don't have to deal with capacitors.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Skip the caps (man it has been a while hasn't it!), Lithium baby! Actually truth be told, one of these would suffice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091P96DDB/?tag=caraudiocom-20

- OR -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GN0CNU/?tag=caraudiocom-20

- OR -

https://bigjeffaudio.com/products/b-stock-ioxus-12v-group-31-smart-power-bluetooth-car-audio-ultra-capacitor

- OR -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089NRB70/?tag=caraudiocom-20

You are rarely going to need it. the combined amperage of the Stinger at 2 ohms and the with 4 channel is around 200 combined. You will rarely see more than 15 to 20 amps and may see 50 to 60 amp spikes which those batteries should do fine with using the stock alternator. Use some good decent +/- 4 gauge OFC to the rear, run everything from there.

Watch and learn



So, that battery thing is still an optional thing should you find that you need it - may not. Could be that a larg-ish new AGM under the hood would suffice, not that much juice really, Both the recoil and Stinger amps are class D and fairly efficient. On my test bench, I have a 3K mono and a 1k 4 channel, filling the entire garage I rarely draw more than 12-15 amps and that is WAY LOUD!

 

[helot]

yeah it's just a known thing that people who end up putting a winch and lights and aftermarket kit on these Jeeps run into issues. It's not a problem until you are driving in the winter with the heater blower on high, windshield wipers going, at night with standard bulbs in. For the most part the stock stuff is able to handle worst case scenario for stock parts but aftermarket thump machines aren't exactly accounted for. I plan on switching to LED headlights and such and the 120A alternator is plug and play. I was just trying to figure what a stereo at hair blowing volumes would add to the equation. If the recommended fuses are under 30A it should be fine but if we are looking at 50A+ it may take some thinking.

 

[helot]

There is a method to the madness. I had the Jeep torn down and have been putting it back together. It sparked the idea of stereo system install while the interior was gutted and figured it would be easier to put a stereo in now as opposed to after the interior went back together. Now I am giving myself over to the midlife crisis:

Ordered:

rear	NVX® VSP525 component
front	NVX® VSP525 coax
4 channel amp	Recoil DI1200
head	Pioneer MVH-S322BT
RCAs	OFC
woofer fuse	200A
power cables	4G OFC 20ft+ 5ft-
distro blocks	brass 4G
mids fuse and holder	100A
crimp tool	with 4G copper lugs

All in with taxes and fees so far is $541.30. I have a spool of speaker wire already from an old job and may or may not need more power cable depending on the location of the sub amp. I am not sure it will squeeze under the back seat comfortably. I made a cardboard mock up and didn't like how it sat.

After woofers, sub amp, a connector block for the enclosure and the sheet of MDF I should come in under the $1000 goal. If I need a battery (which which will likely happen regardless) That is going to break the bank, but I am also not counting the custom battery cables I already installed as those are for more than just the stereo.

This kit should get me to where I can get the front seats and most of the trim back in and give me a good enough final wiring test for the whole vehicle so I can move forward. Wanting to have it in paint by the end of the month.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There is a method to the madness. I had the Jeep torn down and have been putting it back together. It sparked the idea of stereo system install while the interior was gutted and figured it would be easier to put a stereo in now as opposed to after the interior went back together. Now I am giving myself over to the midlife crisis:

Ordered:

rear	NVX® VSP525 component
front	NVX® VSP525 coax
4 channel amp	Recoil DI1200
head	Pioneer MVH-S322BT
RCAs	OFC
woofer fuse	200A
power cables	4G OFC 20ft+ 5ft-
distro blocks	brass 4G
mids fuse and holder	100A
crimp tool	with 4G copper lugs

All in with taxes and fees so far is $541.30. I have a spool of speaker wire already from an old job and may or may not need more power cable depending on the location of the sub amp. I am not sure it will squeeze under the back seat comfortably. I made a cardboard mock up and didn't like how it sat.

After woofers, sub amp, a connector block for the enclosure and the sheet of MDF I should come in under the $1000 goal. If I need a battery (which which will likely happen regardless) That is going to break the bank, but I am also not counting the custom battery cables I already installed as those are for more than just the stereo.

This kit should get me to where I can get the front seats and most of the trim back in and give me a good enough final wiring test for the whole vehicle so I can move forward. Wanting to have it in paint by the end of the month.

I think you meant Coax for the rear and comps up front! Tweeters in the dash and the midbass in the doors.

 

[helot]

yeah, the separates will go up front

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

yeah, the separates will go up front

 

[helot]

received a package of much equipment today. was sent the wrong amp so that is slightly annoying. I will say with the NVX speakers I am slightly disappointed that they did not come with any female terminal connectors. I am okay with no speaker wire but the connectors would have been nice seeing as how they are some wonky size I don't have on hand. the separates came with male 2.8mm and 4.8mm connects for some odd reason but connecting to the speakers themselves is now an exercise in either soldering directly to the terminal (not ideal), modifying the speaker or the connector (not ideal) or trying to track down what seems to be 3.8mm and 5.5mm connectors. . .

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Not sure what you're accustomed to, but those male 2.8 and 4.8 leads are pretty standard across the industry. i solder all my speakers in, heat shrink them up, good to go. If you're not inclined to solder Amazon has whole kits of 2.8mm 4.8mm 6.3mm Male and Female Wire Spade Connector with Insulating Sleeves if you prefer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H8DNM2Q/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I think that good soldering work is best in a car environment. No vibration issues, no open metal to corrode, solid unfettered connection. Screw type, crimped, slide on, all have the potential down the road to degrade, solder, just not an issue.