I seek help from the car audio gods!

Joe Shmo

CarAudio.com Newbie
So I have a 12" 2500RMS 1ohm stable Skar Audio subwoofer paired with the corresponding Skar amplifier that pushes 2500RMS at 1 ohm. This is in a 2022 Chevy Spark. I ran an RCA output module off the factory head using a Chevy wiring diagram. My issue is clipping. With literally everything turned down it clips. I have traced all the wire, I find nothing broken or pinched. Oh and I have the subwoofer wired positive through to positive and negative through to negative. And I have a Stinger 10 Farad hybrid cap that reads correct. Can someone please help, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. I feel like this sub should have the capability to shatter my windshield and **** the air from my lungs but I barely get a grumble, it's very frustrating.
 
Thank you in advance. I feel like this sub should have the capability to shatter my windshield and **** the air from my lungs but I barely get a grumble, it's very frustrating.
A car audio addage is "It takes power to make power". If your amp is starved of power, it will clip. Being that it is a 2500 watt amp, it is just above the power range of where one needs to upgrade one or two components for it to work correctly. Aside from the power cap, what other upgrade have you done to feed the amp?
 
So I have a 12" 2500RMS 1ohm stable Skar Audio subwoofer paired with the corresponding Skar amplifier that pushes 2500RMS at 1 ohm. This is in a 2022 Chevy Spark. I ran an RCA output module off the factory head using a Chevy wiring diagram. My issue is clipping. With literally everything turned down it clips. I have traced all the wire, I find nothing broken or pinched. Oh and I have the subwoofer wired positive through to positive and negative through to negative. And I have a Stinger 10 Farad hybrid cap that reads correct. Can someone please help, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. I feel like this sub should have the capability to shatter my windshield and **** the air from my lungs but I barely get a grumble, it's very frustrating.
Have you done any of the Big 3, do you have a 2nd battery. I wouldn't say you would need a alternator bc I'm running 3500 watts on stock with big 3 and extra battery. What type of wiring are you using?
 
80a Alt. is your problem....i have a 2017 spark, no way i would go over 1000rms on stock electrical in that thing....and your cap aint doin shit.....takes power to make power...that car wont ever make power 😂🤣
 
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Have you done any of the Big 3, do you have a 2nd battery. I wouldn't say you would need a alternator bc I'm running 3500 watts on stock with big 3 and extra battery. What type of wiring are you using?
So I have a 0 gauge kit. Ya know adding another battery never crossed my mind. Do you add it as you would a second battery for a plow setup where I wire it to a relay through the vehicle alternator? Or else how does that battery charge? I apologize for my ignorance I don't know about the "Big 3".
 
80a Alt. is your problem....i have a 2017 spark, no way i would go over 1000rms on stock electrical in that thing....and your cap aint doin shit.....takes power to make power...that car wont ever make power 😂🤣
Listen bud, I get you think this is humorous but I honestly don't know and because I'm educated I'm not going to pretend I do. I have a couple thousand dollars tied up in this system and I'd like it to work properly. I appreciate any real help you might have to offer, I don't appreciate you joking about the situation. I didn't take into account the vehicle alternator but now I realize I should have, thanks.
 
A car audio addage is "It takes power to make power". If your amp is starved of power, it will clip. Being that it is a 2500 watt amp, it is just above the power range of where one needs to upgrade one or two components for it to work correctly. Aside from the power cap, what other upgrade have you done to feed the amp?
That's it. But from the responses I'm getting I'm going to acquire a car audio battery and see what happens. I'm still worried I wired the sub incorrectly though, IDK. I thought clipping was interference of some kind.
 
I'm still worried I wired the sub incorrectly though, IDK. I thought clipping was interference of some kind
To my knowledge, I have only heard clipping being attributed to amplifier inputs; power and signal. If your input signal is weak and you turn up the gain or bass at the amp, it will also clip. The amp will try to amplify a signal that is not there.
On another note, you may be having a polarity issue. If you connected left and right RCAs from the radio, try disconnecting one RCA and turn on the system. If the bass improves, then polarity between the radio and RCA module is the issue. I would blame that spot because all other wiring is clearly marked and you have checked it.
If you wired the sub + with + and - with -, you are good to go.
Make sure the disconnected RCA does not touch anything.
 
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So I have a 0 gauge kit. Ya know adding another battery never crossed my mind. Do you add it as you would a second battery for a plow setup where I wire it to a relay through the vehicle alternator? Or else how does that battery charge? I apologize for my ignorance I don't know about the "Big 3".
Okay so where is the 0 guage wire is it connected to the battery in the front of the vehicle. And yes you would hook both battery's up in parallel I would suggest to run the 2nd battery on the alternator if you don't your starter battery will charge the other battery I'm pretty sure but I would suggest hooking it up to the alternator and look into Glowe Voltage battery's I'm going with the series 3 but you can get the series 2 in my opinion hit them up on Facebook and they will help you figure out what battery you need
https://www.facebook.com/GloweVoltage?mibextid=JRoKGi
Here's the link I got recommend to use them
 
Read up on this first.

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

Then watch this on amp draw, it will help you learn about what to expect.



Keeping in mind that your alt is going to choke things a bit and a 2nd battery, parallel grounded, is an option to overcome the alternator issue.

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/

For the extra ground that your kit won't have

https://www.acdcwireandsupply.com/EXCELENE_WELDING_CABLE_s/1855.htm

Since the big 3 upgrade and an HOalt is a about $500- $600 upgrade, a 2nd batter is a good option. One of these with the extra ground wire and connectors will set you back around $2-$300, a lot less costly and much easier to install in most cases.


This will also do the job, a little more expensive

 
To my knowledge, I have only heard clipping being attributed to amplifier inputs; power and signal. If your input signal is weak and you turn up the gain or bass at the amp, it will also clip. The amp will try to amplify a signal that is not there.
On another note, you may be having a polarity issue. If you connected left and right RCAs from the radio, try disconnecting one RCA and turn on the system. If the bass improves, then polarity between the radio and RCA module is the issue. I would blame that spot because all other wiring is clearly marked and you have checked it.
If you wired the sub + with + and - with -, you are good to go.
Make sure the disconnected RCA does not touch anything.
Will do, much appreciated!
 
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Joe Shmo

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