capacitor wiring

You've been on this forum for over three years and you don't know the answer to that question?????
What have you been doing?
I sure don't know the answer to that question considering that i thought it was ok to wire caps ground and amp ground at the sameplace

 
Stinger's Site
Ah... nods. Also on Stinger's site you will find they don't recommend running power and RCA in the same channel. However, they won't back up that claim with facts. If your grounds are indeed solid, you should have no problems. Think about it, it's the exact same grounding plane... why would it differ any at all. Don't get me wrong, Stinger is good product and highly recommended (it's what I run for wires and fuses).

 
Actually Caps DO have a place in car audio systems. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

It's just that 99% of the time they are used incorrectly, which of course, gives them a bad rap.

A capacitor's job is to merely store power for the amp that can be discharged to the amp at a higher rate than the battery or alternator up front can. This is helpful when you have a sudden transient were the amp immediately needs power. Even with a HO alt and good battery, the amp will be slightly starved of voltage at the onset of the transient. Obviously with the increased current demand the HO alt will up the voltage and current output "satisfying" the amp. It's just that at the onset of somethign sudden like that is where a Cap is designed to help.

the problem with caps ONLY lies in people trying to use them to prevent headlight dimming on a severely overtaxed alternator. They should be replaceing the alternator up front first, doing the big 3, and checking their battery condition first.

Incidentally capacitors help SQ significantly. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif There is a reason my mom's truck has one. She has a K3500 chevy - 160amp alt factory and 2 batteries underhood also factory - more than a stable enough electrical to support a 2300x. (750w rms) to 2 kicker cvr 10s. Yet adding the cap made them sound that much better...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
here's my wiring plan:

0/1g battery fuse distro(4g) +cap1 +jl1000.1 +cap2 +pg tantrum

-jl1000.1 - cap1 -pg tantrum -cap2 fuse distro ground (0/1)

 
don't ground your amps to the cap. ground each individual component seperately to the same spot on the chasis. also didn't you get an HO alt? i would personally ditch the caps and run a second battery. it's just as easy as wiring a cap.

 
don't ground your amps to the cap. ground each individual component seperately to the same spot on the chasis. also didn't you get an HO alt? i would personally ditch the caps and run a second battery. it's just as easy as wiring a cap.
X2, all they do is make taking battery terminals off a scary experience. I had one solely because it had a voltage meter. A good battery is 50x the value of a cap. And if done proplerly can be a nice backup if you leave your lights on.

 
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