Box bracing?

[theMessenjah44 10+ year member]

use some PL Polyurethane adhesive. It comes in a caulking tube like liquid nails. It's a little thick to work with...but you won't find any better bond

piss on titebond....that ****'s too runny

 

[S.B.C. 10+ year member]

use some PL Polyurethane adhesive. It comes in a caulking tube like liquid nails. It's a little thick to work with...but you won't find any better bond

piss on titebond....that ****'s too runny

ill piss on your sisters face //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

i use both depending on the box they are both pretty equal but LN is a lot easier.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

ill piss on your sisters face //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

wow really?

video or ur full of it lolz

 

[S.B.C. 10+ year member]

wow really?video or ur full of it lolz

Yes really

Sorry bub, you gotta pay like everyone else //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

paypal rdy lolz

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

I glue all my seams with Titebond wood glue and then I do a bead of liquid nails ensure a proper seal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

How did this get turned into another glue thread?

Back to box bracing if it still applies to the OP

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

use some PL Polyurethane adhesive. It comes in a caulking tube like liquid nails. It's a little thick to work with...but you won't find any better bond

piss on titebond....that ****'s too runny

I'm sorry to be so rude, but, how are people so **** dense? Wood glue is used to bond WOOD. It is chemically made to bond WOOD. Nothing bonds wood stronger than WOOD GLUE. The only time that you don't use wood glue when gluing wood is when you're in a huge hurry and have a large amount of product to make, aka, you're not giving attention to detail. Wood glue is the only thing that should be bonding your joints. Period. If you choose not to, then fine, but don't recommend it to other people because wood glue is used for WOOD and there is not a single reputable enclosure builder who does not use it.

If you want me to go into the reasons about physical bonds versus chemical bonds, then I will, but just to simplify it: liquid nails is like taking two pieces of plastic and super gluing them together, while wood glue is like taking the two pieces of plastic and melting them together to form one piece. Wood glue is used for wood, end of discussion. If you think it's not, then please go to any wood working forum or talk to any serious speaker builder and have them take your head off. WG is cheaper, works better, dries faster, sands easier and is simply the superior product. This isn't my arrogance, it's woodworking 101 and since enclosure building is often done with wood, then it applies here.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

pv i do agree for the most part but mdf is not wood bro, it is medium density fiber board, aka paper and waste wood, both work exceptionally well and while titebond is better it isnt by that much for MDF since MDF is chemically and pressure bonded to begin with, it is a hunk of waste materials and chemical glue pressed into a sheet basically, if we were talking birch or hardwood id would wanna slap anyone that thought LN is better or even useable but it works great for mdf.

Medium density fiberboard, or MDF, is a composite wood product similar to particleboard. It's made out of wood waste fibers glued together with resin, heat, and pressure. MDF is appropriate for many applications, from cabinetry to moulding, because it is smooth, uniform, and won't warp.

Builders use MDF in many capacities, such as in furniture, shelving, laminate flooring, decorative moulding, and doors. They value MDF for its insular qualities in sound and heat. Also, it can be nailed, glued, screwed, stapled, or attached with dowels, making it as versatile as plank wood. Usually, people working with MDF use a carbide saw fitted with a vacuum to reduce the amount of airborne dust. Since MDF is strengthened with resin containing formaldehyde, those at exposure try to reduce their risk of inhalation, or use special MDF with lower formaldehyde levels.

Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down hardwood or softwood residuals into wood fibres, often in a defibrator, combining it with wax and a resin binder, and forming panels by applying high temperature and pressure.[1] MDF is much stronger and denser than plywood.

It is made up of separated fibers, (not wood veneers) but can be used as a building material similar in application to plywood. It is much more dense than normal particle board.

and this last one is why i also agree with you as well but disagree to a small degree too kind of a catch 22 ya know?

Q: What kinds of glues can I use with MDF?

A: Good glues to use are gap-filling glues such as polyvinyl acetate (PVA) typically known as yellow glue, modified PVA glues like Titebond II or white glues. Epoxy, urea and hot melt glues may also be used.

the good LN is pva or epoxy based the lower end stuff is resin and or toluene based

no disrespect intended so dont get me wrong, because we both know how much respect I do have for you. but while LN is not ideal it is an acceptable glue to use. titebond II is still better tho lolz i always use it hell it is 16$ a gallon lolz

 

[theMessenjah44 10+ year member]

I'm sorry to be so rude, but, how are people so **** dense? Wood glue is used to bond WOOD. It is chemically made to bond WOOD. Nothing bonds wood stronger than WOOD GLUE. The only time that you don't use wood glue when gluing wood is when you're in a huge hurry and have a large amount of product to make, aka, you're not giving attention to detail. Wood glue is the only thing that should be bonding your joints. Period. If you choose not to, then fine, but don't recommend it to other people because wood glue is used for WOOD and there is not a single reputable enclosure builder who does not use it.
If you want me to go into the reasons about physical bonds versus chemical bonds, then I will, but just to simplify it: liquid nails is like taking two pieces of plastic and super gluing them together, while wood glue is like taking the two pieces of plastic and melting them together to form one piece. Wood glue is used for wood, end of discussion. If you think it's not, then please go to any wood working forum or talk to any serious speaker builder and have them take your head off. WG is cheaper, works better, dries faster, sands easier and is simply the superior product. This isn't my arrogance, it's woodworking 101 and since enclosure building is often done with wood, then it applies here.

Not rude, you make a legitimate point. However, I bought a display case of PL polyurethane construction adhesive and a big bottle of Titebond II (I hear Titebond III is better, if it truly is, I'll try it). I've taken a full year of wood shop in High School, and I'm aware of what wood glue is. While the Titebond did a fairly good job at bonding, I feel that the PL did much better. Also the PL is nice to run a bead across all seams to ensure everything is air tight. It also sets up extremely solid.

I don't know you, but I see you've been here a while so I'll assume that you're not new to this by any means. But if you've never tried the PL, give it a shot.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Not rude, you make a legitimate point. However, I bought a display case of PL polyurethane construction adhesive and a big bottle of Titebond II (I hear Titebond III is better, if it truly is, I'll try it). I've taken a full year of wood shop in High School, and I'm aware of what wood glue is. While the Titebond did a fairly good job at bonding, I feel that the PL did much better. Also the PL is nice to run a bead across all seams to ensure everything is air tight. It also sets up extremely solid.
I don't know you, but I see you've been here a while so I'll assume that you're not new to this by any means. But if you've never tried the PL, give it a shot.

PL two 6" x 6" pieces end-to-end together, just normal butt-joints clamped together...then do the same with two more 6" x 6" pieces but with wood glue (Titebond II is what I always use, id go for that)...let each set plenty of time (atleast let each set overnight) and then unclamp them and clamp one of the 2 pieces firmly to a workbench (both the PL and wood glue pieces)..

Now take a hammer and give the one on each set hanging in free air a good smack...I think you'll be sold with the results on which to use in the future

^And please actually do this so you will see the difference..The pieces that were wood-glued together should have mdf-failure around the glue joint...but the PL pieces, the glue itself should fail without effecting the mdf much because the bond isnt strong enough (this is assuming youre going to use mdf for this test). Like PV said, not to be rude, but a year of High School woodshop doesnt really mean much. Once youve taken cabinetry classes and things of that sort, then that starts to mean something.

Also, head to wood magazine's website and check out the pull-apart tests theyve done with wood glue, pretty much any other method of glueing the joints would simply end in the glue itself failing.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

video or ur full of shiat lol i parked a 9600lb service truck on 2 small 3 cf boxes made with LN Projects tubes and it stayed that way for 3 months.

what do you think they use on houses for the subfloors and sheathing?

They use industrial grade subfloor adhesive...which is what I use on my boxes since I can grab some for free from work. The stuff is definitely stronger than liquid nails. It's actually able to bond together wet and frozen wood(pretty cool IMO). I did a little test with liquid nails(since my dad had some laying around) and the subfloor adhesive I use. Just cut some 12x12 pieces and clamped them together with some 90* clamps...let it sit overnight, and I could fairly easily break the liquid nails joint with my hands(just put the corner on my chest, pulled the ends towards me, and the glue failed). The subfloor adhesive, on the other hand, I could not. I actually had to put it on the floor, step on the flat panel, and kick the upright one in order for it to break...but it broke the MDF, not the bond between the glue and wood.

Liquid Nails just *****, IMO. There is a very noticeable difference from my experiences.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

^Fair enough, as long as the mdf fails and the adhesive is still holding all of the mdf that it was bonded to then thats pretty much what youre looking for...I guess that would be acceptable. Though a better test for bonds, imo, would be to use a hardwood that wouldnt peel apart like mdf would...because the layers behind the bond will just simply fail whereas the hardwood would either totally fail or stay as one piece and pull apart from the adhesive. But since we're mainly using mdf, that wouldnt really matter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

^Fair enough, as long as the mdf fails and the adhesive is still holding all of the mdf that it was bonded to then thats pretty much what youre looking for...I guess that would be acceptable. Though a better test for bonds, imo, would be to use a hardwood that wouldnt peel apart like mdf would...because the layers behind the bond will just simply fail whereas the hardwood would either totally fail or stay as one piece and pull apart from the adhesive. But since we're mainly using mdf, that wouldnt really matter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I just had to correct him for the comment about what they use for the subfloors, since no one around here uses liquid nails for any of that stuff. They use subfloor adhesive from either GE or Dap. It's thicker than normal wood glue, which I like, and is damn near impossible to break or even get off your clothes. I have some on a shirt of mine that's been washed I don't know how many times. The subfloor adhesive is still there like the day it happened, and I can sometimes get some to peel off by picking at it for a while. But it's really more work than it's worth, so the adhesive stays on for now.