XXX 6.5 did my install OMG #@* pics

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

what are some of you using for grills for these mids.

Stock speaker grill, built in to the door.

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

As Noah said you can spend 250 on the speakers, 50-80 for tweets, 300 for a solid h/u with built in 3-way x-over and 24db sloped *cough Premier 860 cough*. That's a total of 600-650 and that's all BNIB stuff. If you hound the forum's for some used or even still NIB XXX's you'll only spend 170-200 for them. Tweets I'd look at LPG, Max-fidelity, or Seas if you want some higher end tweets. I've found a set of 6ohm tweets match the 2ohm of the XXX's nicely though. Snag a 75x4@4ohm you're gold.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

As Noah said you can spend 250 on the speakers, 50-80 for tweets, 300 for a solid h/u with built in 3-way x-over and 24db sloped *cough Premier 860 cough*. That's a total of 600-650 and that's all BNIB stuff. If you hound the forum's for some used or even still NIB XXX's you'll only spend 170-200 for them. Tweets I'd look at LPG, Max-fidelity, or Seas if you want some higher end tweets. I've found a set of 6ohm tweets match the 2ohm of the XXX's nicely though. Snag a 75x4@4ohm you're gold.

Yup, The Vifa's from Madisound //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

NG

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

Yup, The Vifa's from Madisound //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
NG

I'm going that whole expensive route. **** it being horny sucks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif. I'm wondering what that 2-way will compare to though, ID CD1 or CD2 minihorns and xxx's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I'm going that whole expensive route. **** it being horny sucks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif. I'm wondering what that 2-way will compare to though, ID CD1 or CD2 minihorns and xxx's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif.

Yup, I've been looking into horns...but's that's for in the future like within the next year.

NG

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

It's not that expensive at all, I'm doing what you want to do right now...and it only cost me around $500...I got good deals //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Also, look around...you may want to consider going with a higher end HU that has an internal 3-way crossover. I had an external Active Setup, but decided to go with a HU that offer 3 way bandpassable xover with up to 24 dB/Octave slopes in it. later

NG

Well I'm either going to go with these and do an active setup or go with the DLS Irridiums.

I already have my HU but I'm not sure it wuld work, I just bought it so I'm not looking for a new one. I picked up an eclipse 5444 for a good price. I don't know if it has the X-over I don't think it does but I'm not sure, I need to put it in advanced mode to find out probably. If it had an X-over that was suitable for this application then I think I might have to go for it all I would need extra is a new amp, and I could use my existing one to power the rear door speakers.

I already have a 2 channel eclipse 75x2 amp I could use with the irridiums that does not sound like it would work for an active setup. I'd LOVE to have XXX's in my door but it sounds like it is almost 2/3rds more $ than the irridiums.

I'm not sure how you are doing it for $500. or what the over all difference in SQ would be. I definately want more of a SQ system, will probably use koda 10's or RLi's for the subwoofers.

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

Well if you already have the XXX's and the 5444 then all you need is a set of tweets and a 3-way crossover. Coustic XM6 crossover to run 3-way active that'll cost you 100 bucks or less i believe. So instead of getting DLS IR's which IMO and usage even the 8" IR mid won't touch the XXX keep what you have and get some DIY tweets and 3-way crossover. You'll spend 180 max on tweets and crossover.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

no I don't have the XXX's Tweets, Crossoever and I only have a 2 channel amp not a 4 channel, but I might be getting a new amp anyways.

 

[bdonkersgoed 10+ year member]

Hey Guys,

Yesterday I had my stereo installed, and for the rear mids I went with RE-XXX 6.5" midbasses hooked up in parallel to an Orion HCCA 225G4 amp.

My Setup:

- Alpine CDA-9835HU

- Focal Utopia 165W 2-Way Components in Front

- PPI Ax400 bridged to power Utopias

- RE-XXX 6.5" Midbasses for rear doors, hooked up in parallel

- Orion HCCA 225G4 to power XXXs (in bandpass mode)

- Brown Bread sound deadening in all four doors

RE-XXX Specs:

RE: 1.75 Ohms

Fs: 47.4 Hz

Qms: 2.33

Qes: 0.59

Qts: 0.473

Mms: 15.04 g

Cms: 7.505E-04

Vas: 21.49 ltr

1- way Xmax: 13mm linear

Le: 0.14mH

Bl: 3.636 t/m

Power: 150wrms

Spl: 87.75 dB 1W/1m

Orion HCCA 225G4 Specs:

4.0ohm stereo ~ 25W RMS

2.0ohm stereo ~ 50W RMS

1.0ohm stereo ~ 100W RMS

0.5ohm stereo ~ 200W RMS

4.0ohm mono ~ 100W RMS

2.0ohm mono ~ 200W RMS

1.0ohm mono ~ 400W RMS

My Problem:

From what I have read, the RE-XXX 6.5" speakers are 1.75ohms, but when I measured the load of the XXXs hooked in parallel on the Orion amp, it was as high as 1.5ohms! By hooking up the XXXs in parallel, should I not be getting a 0.875ohm load (i.e. 1.75ohm/2)?? My 1.5ohm load on the Orion leads me to believe that the XXXs are 3ohm speakers, which can't be right . . .

I am so confused! The HCCA is a cheater amp, and it needs a lower impedance, preferably around 1ohm when in mono, to really perform. At my current 1.5ohm mono hookup at 1.5ohms, I am getting around 150W RMS per speaker. I guess this is probably enough anyways, but I am still confused none-the-less.

Also, are there any suggestions on how I should tune these speakers? I want them to act as subs, because I am not putting in a sub this time around (because my subs keep on getting stolen!) Is there a way to limit the XXXs to lower frequencies? I don't want them to play a higher range because I think they distract from my Focal Utopia front stage. All I want is good clean "bass" (yes, I know it isn't actual bass) coming from the rear doors. Is there any tricks I can do with the Orion amp or with the built-in crossover of my Alpine CDA-9835 deck?

Help is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!

Bryan

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

I'll stick with these.... Full active setup... ~$400

now with the new enclosures... that's a bit higher... but just for the equiptment it wasn't that bad. I wouldn't really reccomend these babies to anyone unless they were good at fiberglass and had room for LARGE pods, cause these sound like butt in my old pods...

 

[smullen 10+ year member]

RE xxx mids are the best ive ever had they are just insane with my mtx 942 pushin 200 + at them it seems like they want more but i wana break them in first

What Tweets and X-overs did you use?

Did youever get any install pics??? Are they sealed or what?

I'd love to see some of these in a 2nd Gen (98+) S-10, as thats what I have and mine will be going in....

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

Hey Guys,
Yesterday I had my stereo installed, and for the rear mids I went with RE-XXX 6.5" midbasses hooked up in parallel to an Orion HCCA 225G4 amp.

My Setup:

- Alpine CDA-9835HU

- Focal Utopia 165W 2-Way Components in Front

- PPI Ax400 bridged to power Utopias

- RE-XXX 6.5" Midbasses for rear doors, hooked up in parallel

- Orion HCCA 225G4 to power XXXs (in bandpass mode)

- Brown Bread sound deadening in all four doors

RE-XXX Specs:

RE: 1.75 Ohms

Fs: 47.4 Hz

Qms: 2.33

Qes: 0.59

Qts: 0.473

Mms: 15.04 g

Cms: 7.505E-04

Vas: 21.49 ltr

1- way Xmax: 13mm linear

Le: 0.14mH

Bl: 3.636 t/m

Power: 150wrms

Spl: 87.75 dB 1W/1m

Orion HCCA 225G4 Specs:

4.0ohm stereo ~ 25W RMS

2.0ohm stereo ~ 50W RMS

1.0ohm stereo ~ 100W RMS

0.5ohm stereo ~ 200W RMS

4.0ohm mono ~ 100W RMS

2.0ohm mono ~ 200W RMS

1.0ohm mono ~ 400W RMS

My Problem:

From what I have read, the RE-XXX 6.5" speakers are 1.75ohms, but when I measured the load of the XXXs hooked in parallel on the Orion amp, it was as high as 1.5ohms! By hooking up the XXXs in parallel, should I not be getting a 0.875ohm load (i.e. 1.75ohm/2)?? My 1.5ohm load on the Orion leads me to believe that the XXXs are 3ohm speakers, which can't be right . . .

I am so confused! The HCCA is a cheater amp, and it needs a lower impedance, preferably around 1ohm when in mono, to really perform. At my current 1.5ohm mono hookup at 1.5ohms, I am getting around 150W RMS per speaker. I guess this is probably enough anyways, but I am still confused none-the-less.

Also, are there any suggestions on how I should tune these speakers? I want them to act as subs, because I am not putting in a sub this time around (because my subs keep on getting stolen!) Is there a way to limit the XXXs to lower frequencies? I don't want them to play a higher range because I think they distract from my Focal Utopia front stage. All I want is good clean "bass" (yes, I know it isn't actual bass) coming from the rear doors. Is there any tricks I can do with the Orion amp or with the built-in crossover of my Alpine CDA-9835 deck?

Help is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!

Bryan

All vc's vary in actual impedence a little bit from the factory. They are 2ohm SVC nominal or extremely close. If you wire them in parallel you should be getting a .8-1.5 ohm load without breaking a sweat. On another note may I ask why in god's name you would bridge a set of speaker's ?? You're setup seems more SQ setup and yet you are ruining your stereo imaging by bridging the G4.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

DCR the coils outside of the enclosure not hooked up. They should DCR right around 1.9-2 ohms. The rise you are getting is called impedance rise, the impedance actually changes as music plays. Tho, with nothing on it parallel you should be near .9-1.1 ohms or so...you may also need a better DMM that reads resistance more quickly...that is sometimes the problem.

NG

 

[bumpin_blazer 5,000+ posts]

DCR the coils outside of the enclosure not hooked up. They should DCR right around 1.9-20 ohms. The rise you are getting is called impedance rise, the impedance actually changes as music plays. Tho, with nothing on it parallel you should be near .9-1.1 ohms or so...you may also need a better DMM that reads resistance more quickly...that is sometimes the problem.
NG

dang nate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif gotta be all specific like lol. Although if his xxx mid is reading 20 ohms like you put up there isn't that a bad thing.

p.s.- the name was giving you shite //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

dang nate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif gotta be all specific like lol. Although if his xxx mid is reading 20 ohms like you put up there isn't that a bad thing.
p.s.- the name was giving you shite //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif

You called me NATE?!?!?!?!?!? AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

NG