WTB dirt cheap subs that handle 1500rms alone or as pair. I'll take anything

thisisausername
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These are for a frat house so cosmetic stuff doesn't matter.We bought a 1500w rms amplifier that is not underrated at all. Unfortunately we incinerated our existing subs with it and now we are broke. Needs to be cheap, like under 200 bucks. It's stationary installation so box/driver size have no limits.

Give me your re-cones and weird oddball prototype custom ****!

  • needs to be a four ohm load to the amp. How you get there doesn't matter
  • high efficiency/bigger drivers would be nice
  • has to function

I'm near chicago I can pick up if you're local

 
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Funky Pup 12" NWC-12 here you go
how come whenever you aren't specific you get ridiculed? This is an audio forum, nobody is going to sell ****. I don't have to fit it in a car or a specific box size, it doesn't have to look nice when I pop the trunk. It doesn't matter if it's one woofer or twins. I think my requirements are more lenient than about 99% of guys looking for subs on here.

edit: chilled out post a bit

 
how come whenever you aren't specific you get ridiculed? This is an audio forum, nobody is going to sell absolute ****. I don't have to fit it in a car or a specific box size, it doesn't have to look nice when I pop the trunk. It doesn't matter if it's one woofer or twins. I think my requirements are more lenient than about 99% of guys looking for subs on here.If you're not serious why are you responding in the WTB forum? Are you really reading the classifieds to troll people? Get a life.
chill out.... those subs are a joke.

an american bass XFL 12 for 195 shipped @mylows;

 
i like how they put affordable in the description with a 500 dollar price tag rofl.
yeah unfortunately 120v audio stuff is usually more expensive than car audio //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif . Not totally sure but I think I know a reason. I've done a good bit of research into switching power supplies, it was for an inverter based welder but principle is the same. Inside the amp you have a Power Factor Corrector before the main switching stage and, at least for me, that ended up being far more expensive to build than the switching part itself. To spare the details the PFC stage is used because with AC current, a switching supply without one would only draw power from the peaks of the wave. This would distort the mains power circuit really bad and also puts tons of pressure on the capacitors and rectifier for the main stage. I read that most class D mains amps can only provide their RMS rating for about 20ms then they drop down to about half power. 20 ms is coincidentally about how long it would take to drain the stored energy in the PFC stage if it was designed to handle about half the rated power.

The relevance of that rant is that since cars use DC they don't need a power factor correction stage at all. That effectively eliminates the first half of a regular mains amp. 12V is also a really friendly voltage for IC's and micros so you also save by not having a separate power supply to run the main amplifiers switches and such.

 
got a TC9 motor with a PSI recone. 12" w/direct leads. $200 shipped if interested.
PM sent

12" Incriminator Audio death row, 1500rms duel 2 ohm coils. 4 months use. $300 shipped
Good deal but out of my price range //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif . We budget stuff per semester and I couldn't get the guys to go more than $250. Some of that money needs to be spent on box too so I'm pretty limited

 
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thisisausername

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