WTB: 4/0 - 1/0 reducers

Does anyone know where I could buy these?
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Hello Paul/

I honestly don't think that [but honestly don't know] if that 4/0 to 1/0 reducer even exists.But...a *Machine Shop* would be your best bet/;)....Seriously.

I had 1/0, 90 Degree Adapters made for the 2 Old School Kicker ZR/1000's I have

that normally take 4/Gauge Cable.They were made from Yellow Brass.My new 2/0 Welding Cable *Fits* into the StreetWires Ring Terminals w/the Set Screws.

So I had those Larger ones made for the2~ ZR/1000's.Those B!sturds are Power Hungry,well now I can *Slip 'er the Juice,Bruce*,and will not have that Issue.

Than also had the same design done,but for 4/Gauge Welding Cable for the Smaller amps that normally take 8/Gauge.

I'll have them all "Nickle Plated" so no Tarnishing takes place,and will always have good contact/;).

A good machinist can do them,Paul.Just make sure to tell him to keep one side Flat on the *Pin Part* for your Set Screw.He'll also have to make threads in each adapter for the Allen Screws to hold the Copper Strands.

IMOHO...get Set Screws w/a smooth end.Then when you're ready...place a drop of "Blue LockTite" on the allen threads and tighten them down.The Smooth End that makes contact with the Copper,when you're tightening down,won't "Rip the Strands"...yeah,that's what I'm talking about.

Also,get some "Dual Wall" or in your case *Triple Wall Adheasive Shrink Tubing*,on E/Bay.Cut a length to overlap the jacket insulation say 3/4" or more where the 4/0 meets the Adapter and go past the Set Screw the

same amount or more.Once that cools down...it will be next to impossible for the Connection to come out or Set Screw to back off.With out that shrink tubing,that set screw can back off some

and start loosing connectivity/:( .The triple wall tubing may not be cheap...but you'll be safer and not "Look Back" or "Think" I should have done this.

I've done this and it worked Great for me,but,it's your call and really your decision,Paul.

Long Winded,Ehhhh!!!!!...Holy Crap/:crazy:.But just really trying to help you here.The 90 Degree was my own Idea,so I could still get the Polished End Caps on.

I love the *OverKill Effect*,but that's me.

But what ever you choice...*All The Best*.Take Care.

Regards/

Raymond

PS:Just thought about this.If you have the Adapters made,try to have the *Barrel* part of the adapter machined Larger

so you can Fit part of the Insulation [i'd have the Insulation go into the Barrel at least 1"] seriously.So if your Cable runs do require a

pretty good bend,you can do it,w/o the stripped jacket end coming away from the inside.Also,try this if you need to make a Bend.

Once you have the Shrink Tube on,but *NOT* Shrunk down,make the bend slowly to where you need it,w/shrink tube in place on the

bend,turn the heat gun on.That's why I say leave yourself enuff tubing on the connections.Try to hold the cable [Or Cable Tie] in the

bent connection you need 'til it cools/;O].Then...you;ll have your necessary bend sort of "Locked" into that desired position.

No fighting/swearing/shooting the cable...lol the cable.Okay,Paul...I'm done...lol.

Dayuuum,alittle more,and I could have done *The Constitution *.I love messing w/wires and Cables...I know,alittle whacky/=O[ .

 
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