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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8521988" data-attributes="member: 576029">I agree to using the Audio Control LC2i, it also generates a turn-on signal.Sometimes, you can buy two head unit harnesses and manually solder them together (like Metra 70-xxxx and Metra 71-xxxx).&nbsp; It&#039;s a lot of work and added bulk in the dash.If your factory system has a factory sub, it&#039;s possible to disconnect the factory sub and use that signal for your aftermarket sub.&nbsp; If your factory system has an factory amp, it&#039;s usually best to snag the signal before the amp (assuming volume control isn&#039;t after the amp).&nbsp; In all other cases, i usually just tap the front speaker wires&nbsp; (for the door woofer).&nbsp; Rear signals are usually quieter with less bass.This is how you tap factory wires (then insulate with 3M Super 33+ electrical tape)<img src="http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Sound%20Domain/soldertap.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8521988, member: 576029"] I agree to using the Audio Control LC2i, it also generates a turn-on signal. Sometimes, you can buy two head unit harnesses and manually solder them together (like Metra 70-xxxx and Metra 71-xxxx). It's a lot of work and added bulk in the dash. If your factory system has a factory sub, it's possible to disconnect the factory sub and use that signal for your aftermarket sub. If your factory system has an factory amp, it's usually best to snag the signal before the amp (assuming volume control isn't after the amp). In all other cases, i usually just tap the front speaker wires (for the door woofer). Rear signals are usually quieter with less bass. This is how you tap factory wires (then insulate with 3M Super 33+ electrical tape) [IMG]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e128/phat_funky_beats/Sound%20Domain/soldertap.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]

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