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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Will my stock 105 amp alternator be able to handle 700-750 watts rms
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<blockquote data-quote="Mcdaddy7777" data-source="post: 8755348" data-attributes="member: 675750"><p>Ok, please disregard this statement. I am very uneducated (and somewhat a dumb dumb), because series is something like this:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30905[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>So, when I mention the videos, basically what they do is run a positive wire to the 2nd battery (no isolator), wiring power wire to amp(s), and appropriately grounding each of the batteries in their respective locations. On the other hand, I hear so many say they have to be in parallel and must match. What is the reason for parallel as opposed to just connecting them together with the power wire? Is it only so that you can double the amp capacity as opposed to just using the 2nd battery as supplemental dedicated for the sound system?</p><p></p><p>In my case, I don't need to double the capacity, but dedicate the primary for car electronics/electrical and 2nd for amps.</p><p></p><p>The other question is, do I actually need an isolator if the two batteries are not the same? Hypothetically, let's just pretend that I will not leave the audio system running without the car started 99% of the time. Also, I would take care to appropriately charge the secondary properly fairly often when at home. Could I still run into problems of the batteries try to **** the life out of each other for being different while the engine is running or completely off siting in the parking lot? I would like to say the answer is no, because the alternator should take over the charging when started right?</p><p></p><p>I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, and I don't mind getting one if it's necessary. I just want make sure I'm not doing more work than is necessary as space is kind of an issue with my Honda. Also, I don't think a diode isolator will be easy to work with due to limited space under the hood and I prefer to not wire it all the way back or near the front seats. It would have to be a relay isolator.</p><p></p><p>Also, all of this is just me thinking ahead in case I have problems with the headlights dimming even after doing the big 3. Also, after doing more research and seeing the answers above (thank you btw), I am fairly convinced that I don't need a new alternator.</p><p></p><p>Please forgive the basic questions here. I realize it's only a matter of understanding basic electricity. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't be asking.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mcdaddy7777, post: 8755348, member: 675750"] Ok, please disregard this statement. I am very uneducated (and somewhat a dumb dumb), because series is something like this: [ATTACH type="full" alt="30905"]30905[/ATTACH] So, when I mention the videos, basically what they do is run a positive wire to the 2nd battery (no isolator), wiring power wire to amp(s), and appropriately grounding each of the batteries in their respective locations. On the other hand, I hear so many say they have to be in parallel and must match. What is the reason for parallel as opposed to just connecting them together with the power wire? Is it only so that you can double the amp capacity as opposed to just using the 2nd battery as supplemental dedicated for the sound system? In my case, I don't need to double the capacity, but dedicate the primary for car electronics/electrical and 2nd for amps. The other question is, do I actually need an isolator if the two batteries are not the same? Hypothetically, let's just pretend that I will not leave the audio system running without the car started 99% of the time. Also, I would take care to appropriately charge the secondary properly fairly often when at home. Could I still run into problems of the batteries try to **** the life out of each other for being different while the engine is running or completely off siting in the parking lot? I would like to say the answer is no, because the alternator should take over the charging when started right? I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, and I don't mind getting one if it's necessary. I just want make sure I'm not doing more work than is necessary as space is kind of an issue with my Honda. Also, I don't think a diode isolator will be easy to work with due to limited space under the hood and I prefer to not wire it all the way back or near the front seats. It would have to be a relay isolator. Also, all of this is just me thinking ahead in case I have problems with the headlights dimming even after doing the big 3. Also, after doing more research and seeing the answers above (thank you btw), I am fairly convinced that I don't need a new alternator. Please forgive the basic questions here. I realize it's only a matter of understanding basic electricity. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't be asking. [/QUOTE]
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Will my stock 105 amp alternator be able to handle 700-750 watts rms
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