Which power supply...

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

... would i need to power a 2000 watt amp via AC power, for regular use, not for testing.

I bought a pair of skar 12" svr dual 4 ohm 800/1600 rms/peak subs, a skar 2000.1 d amplifier, an AC LC6i LOC, and an extra battery, on the recommenation of a friend. The installer told me id have to get an upgraded high output alternator to run the setup in a 2008 audi rs4 with a 190 amp alternator.

I decided against doing that, for a variety of reasons, and have decided to, instead, turn it into a mobile stereo on wheels (think luggage cart) for dragging around my house and to my shop area. To do so, i need a head unit, which ill figure out later, probably a pawn shop special somewhere, a powersupply, some tweets and mids, a smaller amp for those, and a box to put it all in.

Alternately, i have heard it is possible to use a home reciever as my head unit but didnt get any confirmation from anywhere but that one person. Is this possible? If so are there any guides for something like that? Ive got an Onkyo TX-RZ810 id like to use if possible.

Ive also got a Sony MHC-71 i currently use, but the bass is... not satisfactory. If that could be wired up somehow that would actually be ideal.

Thoughts?

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

If that could be wired up somehow that would actually be ideal

It is very doable. Just make sure the resistance on the speakers ends up at 8 Ohms per channel. For signal you could use a BT receiver dongle and an 3.5mm to RCA patch cable. But to TBH, I would just go with a portable speaker at this point.
I have used most of my systems on OEM alternators with zero issues. I say just connect it, you will not be playing full tilt all the time.

 

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

It is very doable. Just make sure the resistance on the speakers ends up at 8 Ohms per channel. For signal you could use a BT receiver dongle and an 3.5mm to RCA patch cable. But to TBH, I would just go with a portable speaker at this point.
I have used most of my systems on OEM alternators with zero issues. I say just connect it, you will not be playing full tilt all the time.

Excellent, the mhc-71 is a portable speaker and i regularly use it with spotify on my phone. Its got a pair of rca in/outs on it, but the lc6i only has speaker wire inputs and rca outputs. So how do i convert rca to what the lc6i uses for input?

 

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

Also, apparently the rs4 uses the vast majority of that 190 amps. I tried to install it in my 2013 rs5 and it ate through my battery pretty quickly. That had a 192 amp alt in it. Also, these cars are incredibly finicky about power fluctuations. Im going to do something a bit more conservative in it and leave the big stuff for my shop area.

2 12" subs in a fairly large metal building with no insulation should effectively piss off my particularly country neighbors.

Hit em with a custom mix of mid 90s hiphop and thrash metal.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Excellent, the mhc-71 is a portable speaker and i regularly use it with spotify on my phone. Its got a pair of rca in/outs on it, but the lc6i only has speaker wire inputs and rca outputs. So how do i convert rca to what the lc6i uses for input?

The mhc will have a headphone jack. You will use a 3.5mm to RCA patch cable to connect direct to the RCA inputs of the amplifier, you will not need the lc6i.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Also, apparently the rs4 uses the vast majority of that 190 amps. I tried to install it in my 2013 rs5 and it ate through my battery pretty quickly. That had a 192 amp alt in it. Also, these cars are incredibly finicky about power fluctuations. Im going to do something a bit more conservative in it and leave the big stuff for my shop area.

I see. Then I agree with you there. I have an e92 that the alternator went out. It turned OFF the water pump and in turn that raised the temperature and that in turn put me in limp mode! IMO, what a goofy design. German engineering.

 

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

The mhc will have a headphone jack. You will use a 3.5mm to RCA patch cable to connect direct to the RCA inputs of the amplifier, you will not need the lc6i.

That would turn off the built in speakers though, yeah? The amp is a single channel just for my subs. If i run the 3.5 to it directly, wont it only be able to outout to my subs? I was thinking mhc to lc6i and out from that to the amp to the subs, and out from the lc6i to some new mids and tweets.

Buuut... maybe if i pop the existing sub out of the mhc, i could use the wires that went to that sub and run those directly to my amp? Then i could retain the existing speakers, but then i still need a powersupply for the amp itself which brings me back to the original question.

Which one?

 

[HardofWhoring]

NOTHING about this story makes sense.

... would i need to power a 2000 watt amp via AC power, for regular use, not for testing.

I bought a pair of skar 12" svr dual 4 ohm 800/1600 rms/peak subs, a skar 2000.1 d amplifier, an AC LC6i LOC, and an extra battery, on the recommenation of a friend. The installer told me id have to get an upgraded high output alternator to run the setup in a 2008 audi rs4 with a 190 amp alternator.

I decided against doing that, for a variety of reasons, and have decided to, instead, turn it into a mobile stereo on wheels (think luggage cart) for dragging around my house and to my shop area. To do so, i need a head unit, which ill figure out later, probably a pawn shop special somewhere, a powersupply, some tweets and mids, a smaller amp for those, and a box to put it all in.

Alternately, i have heard it is possible to use a home reciever as my head unit but didnt get any confirmation from anywhere but that one person. Is this possible? If so are there any guides for something like that? Ive got an Onkyo TX-RZ810 id like to use if possible.

Ive also got a Sony MHC-71 i currently use, but the bass is... not satisfactory. If that could be wired up somehow that would actually be ideal.

Thoughts?

There is so much nonsense here, lets jump right in.

You weren't clear on whether this is going in a car or a not. The installer told you an alternator because they thought it was. Did you change where you were going to put all of this on they fly, (as in: "hey lets just carry it around instead of installing it somewhere).

AC power is in your home. DC power is from a battery. Do you plan on plugging this in, or making it portable? If you want that amp, and AC power you need an inverter.

Luggage cart, okay cool. Let's put 200lbs of worth of stereo equipment onto a luggage cart so that we can not fit it into your audi, and have bass originating from 20 feet away from where you would park your vehicle.

Don't forget the mids, and tweets, so we need another amp, (plus don't forget the subwoofer's enclosure, so now our "luggage cart" is somewhere around 250lbs and the size of a refrigerator. Oh, last but not least, lets put a home stereo receiver on there.

So were around a 300lb luggage cart, the size of a refrigerator, that will generate a lot of heat, be incredibly inefficient, and generate more bass and sound then you would want in your home.


My suggestion, is 100 jumping mule kicks, (jump up, bend at the knees, and kick yourself in your own ass). Go back to your installer, and apologize. Then either buy a cooler stereo, (igloo /coleman style), or let your installer put a stereo in your Audi.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

NOTHING about this story makes sense.

There is so much nonsense here, lets jump right in.

You weren't clear on whether this is going in a car or a not. The installer told you an alternator because they thought it was. Did you change where you were going to put all of this on they fly, (as in: "hey lets just carry it around instead of installing it somewhere).

AC power is in your home. DC power is from a battery. Do you plan on plugging this in, or making it portable? If you want that amp, and AC power you need an inverter.

Luggage cart, okay cool. Let's put 200lbs of worth of stereo equipment onto a luggage cart so that we can not fit it into your audi, and have bass originating from 20 feet away from where you would park your vehicle.

Don't forget the mids, and tweets, so we need another amp, (plus don't forget the subwoofer's enclosure, so now our "luggage cart" is somewhere around 250lbs and the size of a refrigerator. Oh, last but not least, lets put a home stereo receiver on there.

So were around a 300lb luggage cart, the size of a refrigerator, that will generate a lot of heat, be incredibly inefficient, and generate more bass and sound then you would want in your home.


My suggestion, is 100 jumping mule kicks, (jump up, bend at the knees, and kick yourself in your own ass). Go back to your installer, and apologize. Then either buy a cooler stereo, (igloo /coleman style), or let your installer put a stereo in your Audi.

LOL! If you proof read the original post, OP made clear that he decided to not put it in the car. Then asked about a power supply to connect the sub stage along with an automotive amp in the house as a quasi-portable speaker. Then someone suggested a home stereo to do away with the difficulty of a power supply and a car amp. That is where we are jumping around as to what to include in the build.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

That would turn off the built in speakers though, yeah? The amp is a single channel just for my subs. If i run the 3.5 to it directly, wont it only be able to outout to my subs?

Yes it will mute the built in speakers. I thought the new plan was to forgo the car amp and use a home reciever. Way easier than a car amp, power supply, and maybe a full range amp.

Buuut... maybe if i pop the existing sub out of the mhc, i could use the wires that went to that sub and run those directly to my amp? Then i could retain the existing speakers

Yes that would work.

but then i still need a powersupply for the amp itself which brings me back to the original question.

Which one?

As for power supply I have no clue. When I setup a bench I just use a regular car battery to listen to a full range setup for an hour or two. When I setup for subs, it is just for testing the sub, box, or the amp.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

You don't want to put it in your car because your installer told you your 190 amp alt won't cut it..

Your gonna have an even tougher time extracting all the power from your amp in the house, It would be cheaper to buy a new alternator..

With that said, Just run it in your car with the 190 amp. You will be fine..

 

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

NOTHING about this story makes sense.

There is so much nonsense here, lets jump right in.

You weren't clear on whether this is going in a car or a not. The installer told you an alternator because they thought it was. Did you change where you were going to put all of this on they fly, (as in: "hey lets just carry it around instead of installing it somewhere).

AC power is in your home. DC power is from a battery. Do you plan on plugging this in, or making it portable? If you want that amp, and AC power you need an inverter.

Luggage cart, okay cool. Let's put 200lbs of worth of stereo equipment onto a luggage cart so that we can not fit it into your audi, and have bass originating from 20 feet away from where you would park your vehicle.

Don't forget the mids, and tweets, so we need another amp, (plus don't forget the subwoofer's enclosure, so now our "luggage cart" is somewhere around 250lbs and the size of a refrigerator. Oh, last but not least, lets put a home stereo receiver on there.

So were around a 300lb luggage cart, the size of a refrigerator, that will generate a lot of heat, be incredibly inefficient, and generate more bass and sound then you would want in your home.


My suggestion, is 100 jumping mule kicks, (jump up, bend at the knees, and kick yourself in your own ass). Go back to your installer, and apologize. Then either buy a cooler stereo, (igloo /coleman style), or let your installer put a stereo in your Audi.

Not a big reader i see. Thanks for trying though.
I came here looking for suggestions, not criticism or snarkiness borne of a lack of desire to read a thread before replying to it.. Like, seriously, what is the deal with you?

 

[GFunkyGamerGeek]

You don't want to put it in your car because your installer told you your 190 amp alt won't cut it..

Partially. Like I said earlier, I did install this setup in my 2013 audi rs5. It ate my battery in about an hour. Once i disconnected the amp, the car worked fine. Ended up selling the rs5 and bought an rs4 because manual 6 speed FTW.

The rs5 had a 192 amp alternator, the rs4 has a 190. I took the rs4 and the components to an installer, explained what had happened in the rs5, and they said the reason that happened is because this car, unlike many, uses all, or at least most, of its amps when being driven... aggresively. If i want to add a 2000 watt system, i would need to upgrade my alternator to something significantly beefier. He suggested a 275 or higher which i priced at about $700 with no guarantee of a fitment without sending in my currently installed one. This is not something i want to do because i dont want to make any changes to the core functionality of the car, nor do i want to go any real amount of time without listening to that gorgeous BNS engine.

To be very clear, i am NOT putting this system in my rs4. Like i said previously, i want to drag it around between my deck and my shop via luggage cart.

Your gonna have an even tougher time extracting all the power from your amp in the house, It would be cheaper to buy a new alternator..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER3LH5W/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I think this will work, but i dont really want to overdo it either.

With that said, Just run it in your car with the 190 amp. You will be fine..

No, it wont. This isnt a ducking camry bro.

 

[HardofWhoring]

LOL! If you proof read the original post, OP made clear that he decided to not put it in the car. Then asked about a power supply to connect the sub stage along with an automotive amp in the house as a quasi-portable speaker. Then someone suggested a home stereo to do away with the difficulty of a power supply and a car amp. That is where we are jumping around as to what to include in the build.

Op decided not to put it in there car because they didn't want to buy an alternator. The alternative is ridiculously asinine. "I don't want to put an alternator in my car, so I'll just take my car stereo out and carry it around with me".

TWO full size 12" skar subs, an amp, the wiring, (don't forget they need an enclosure) the battery or inverter, (had to edit: because I forgot) mids, highs, and another amp, (LETS NOT FORGOT THE HOME STEREO RECEIVER TOO) is not "quasi-portable".

This should be pretty obvious how ridiculously ignorant this person is, and how stupid this idea is. They want a full size portable home stereo, using car audio equipment. (They want a boombox, a home stereo, and a car stereo in one easy package). Gee, why hasn't anyone else ever thought of this before?

It doesn't even make sense, it's not even practical or usable.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Not a big reader i see. Thanks for trying though.
I came here looking for suggestions, not criticism or snarkiness borne of a lack of desire to read a thread before replying to it.. Like, seriously, what is the deal with you?

You're one of those types. You're the one that just gave the snarkiness without actually responding to my post. You're an idiot, and a hypocrite.