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<blockquote data-quote="Law luck 1" data-source="post: 8862244" data-attributes="member: 690191"><p>And I dont know all the right terms. But I do know he said the gain still had a ton of room (digital in signal something only needed the gain to go up to the first setting or something along those lines) the input signal from my head unit was something which made it possible to keep the gain low. That makes no sense but it what I remember lol. I believe because he used a fancy piece of equipment to set the input on the dsp to match a more normal flat input instead of the curve they use to make 15 watt cruddy speakers sound better. He did tell me the subs peak power handling was 1100. And that they were careful to set it up so it didn't "blow" the sub up. In css defense i had the sub before they got the car. I ran out of money for the project and had to leave the sub as is. I wish I had the pictures. I mean these folks did good work. I mean they mounted the 4 inch mids in my a pillars. That's why I think a "better" sub more suited to my taste if you will. Sorry I am trying to repeat what he explained to me. He said the amp had plenty of "room" left. And he had to set the sub lower to make sure the sound stage staid in the middle of the car. The dongle has attachment that they mounted and had to fabricated next to my power and usb ports on my center console. This thing allows me too use five different presets two off my head unit each set to move the sound stage to different places based on whether its just me or have passengers. Then two aftb settings for just bluetooth and a vallet setting. It also allows me to tune the subs output "volume" and the rear deck speakers to set the sound stage.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Law luck 1, post: 8862244, member: 690191"] And I dont know all the right terms. But I do know he said the gain still had a ton of room (digital in signal something only needed the gain to go up to the first setting or something along those lines) the input signal from my head unit was something which made it possible to keep the gain low. That makes no sense but it what I remember lol. I believe because he used a fancy piece of equipment to set the input on the dsp to match a more normal flat input instead of the curve they use to make 15 watt cruddy speakers sound better. He did tell me the subs peak power handling was 1100. And that they were careful to set it up so it didn't "blow" the sub up. In css defense i had the sub before they got the car. I ran out of money for the project and had to leave the sub as is. I wish I had the pictures. I mean these folks did good work. I mean they mounted the 4 inch mids in my a pillars. That's why I think a "better" sub more suited to my taste if you will. Sorry I am trying to repeat what he explained to me. He said the amp had plenty of "room" left. And he had to set the sub lower to make sure the sound stage staid in the middle of the car. The dongle has attachment that they mounted and had to fabricated next to my power and usb ports on my center console. This thing allows me too use five different presets two off my head unit each set to move the sound stage to different places based on whether its just me or have passengers. Then two aftb settings for just bluetooth and a vallet setting. It also allows me to tune the subs output "volume" and the rear deck speakers to set the sound stage. [/QUOTE]
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