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Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
WHAT's The PROPER WAY TO MOUNT MATERIALS ON THE OUTER DOOR OVER METAL OR CLD
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<blockquote data-quote="Alrojoca" data-source="post: 8161623" data-attributes="member: 638714"><p>Okay! Will I be better off just putting CLD over that steel bar?</p><p></p><p>What about if I put this On the outer door <a href="http://store.secondskinaudio.com/speaker-tweaker-kit-1/" target="_blank">Speaker Tweaker Kit - Second Skin Audio</a> how will I mount it? Do they come with just glue or DS tape. I just need to get an idea of what glue Velcro or mounting tape can be used over CLD on the outer door.</p><p></p><p>I know there are controversies on CCF behind the midbass drivers, I was not thinking about using 1/8" thick CCF I was planing on gluing two 1/4" pieces to make a 1/2" thick CCF, being this thick it will have more effect if any. CLD has a hard aluminum layer, my logic tells me sound will bounce off that layer just as it will bounce from the naked steel bar, I figured if I cover the bar with 1/2" pipe insulator will help to deflect the sound waves. Fiberglass will not be an option for me.</p><p></p><p>Knowing the best way to mount that with adhesive, tape or ...... Does not mean I may just try to glue CCF behind the midbass driver, I can always glue CCF on other areas even on the inner inside door, like to place a skirt over the covered holes to avoid water getting in between the inner door metal, caulk rope and sheet metal covering the hole, that eventually will result in a water leak if water sits on those pockets created when putting sheet metal over the acces holes on the inner door. I know CLD works the best to cover those pockets and keep water out. The issue is, once we put sheet metal over an opening the pocket is made, and there is no way to reach with my arm from the speaker hole with a piece of CLD feel and guess where to place the CLD to cover the pockets of the covered holes.</p><p></p><p>While with CCF I can glue it to the sheet metal to create a skirt or or Velcro it to the inner door before I screw the sheet metal over the access holes. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />. I'm not trying to complicate things, every car is different and I recommend a water test before removing a door panel just to see where the water goes and if any lands on those pockets, even if no leaks are detected, we don't want water to sit in those pockets in a sealed door there may not be enough air flow for the water to dry and that may cause some issues in the long term.</p><p></p><p>A loose plastic inside the hole could also be used as a moisture barrier the problem is that it needs to be pushed in and kept inside to keep the water from reaching the pocket at the bottom of the access opening.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alrojoca, post: 8161623, member: 638714"] Okay! Will I be better off just putting CLD over that steel bar? What about if I put this On the outer door [URL="http://store.secondskinaudio.com/speaker-tweaker-kit-1/"]Speaker Tweaker Kit - Second Skin Audio[/URL] how will I mount it? Do they come with just glue or DS tape. I just need to get an idea of what glue Velcro or mounting tape can be used over CLD on the outer door. I know there are controversies on CCF behind the midbass drivers, I was not thinking about using 1/8" thick CCF I was planing on gluing two 1/4" pieces to make a 1/2" thick CCF, being this thick it will have more effect if any. CLD has a hard aluminum layer, my logic tells me sound will bounce off that layer just as it will bounce from the naked steel bar, I figured if I cover the bar with 1/2" pipe insulator will help to deflect the sound waves. Fiberglass will not be an option for me. Knowing the best way to mount that with adhesive, tape or ...... Does not mean I may just try to glue CCF behind the midbass driver, I can always glue CCF on other areas even on the inner inside door, like to place a skirt over the covered holes to avoid water getting in between the inner door metal, caulk rope and sheet metal covering the hole, that eventually will result in a water leak if water sits on those pockets created when putting sheet metal over the acces holes on the inner door. I know CLD works the best to cover those pockets and keep water out. The issue is, once we put sheet metal over an opening the pocket is made, and there is no way to reach with my arm from the speaker hole with a piece of CLD feel and guess where to place the CLD to cover the pockets of the covered holes. While with CCF I can glue it to the sheet metal to create a skirt or or Velcro it to the inner door before I screw the sheet metal over the access holes. :-). I'm not trying to complicate things, every car is different and I recommend a water test before removing a door panel just to see where the water goes and if any lands on those pockets, even if no leaks are detected, we don't want water to sit in those pockets in a sealed door there may not be enough air flow for the water to dry and that may cause some issues in the long term. A loose plastic inside the hole could also be used as a moisture barrier the problem is that it needs to be pushed in and kept inside to keep the water from reaching the pocket at the bottom of the access opening. [/QUOTE]
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WHAT's The PROPER WAY TO MOUNT MATERIALS ON THE OUTER DOOR OVER METAL OR CLD
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