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What size box should I get / build: Sealed ft3: 0.70? IDQ10V3.D4
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<blockquote data-quote="zako" data-source="post: 7591668" data-attributes="member: 629735"><p>The most common argument I have heard is flat frequency response. Vented box can be very useful to achieve a flat frequency response outside of car. Inside of car, you get more SPL because of cabin gain, and vented can result in exaggerated lows. I can see myself getting a vented box subwoofer once I have an advanced processor with equalizer bands centered at say 20, 35, 50Hz, etc or fully parametric or if someone designed a ported box for best (flat) response inside of my car.. Actually, to tell the truth, most likely I will stop screwing around with the sub stage components altogether and leave it as is, a budget 12 inch in a sealed box.. too much trouble for something that plays in a 60Hz-wide band and ultimately will not work perfectly (from SQ perspective) in a car on 100% of music content no matter how much you screw with it (due to buzzes and rattles "coloring" sound, cabin gain, rear sub location, etc). I can see myself adding something like an advanced processor and TrueRTA setup to flatten up the frequency response or perhaps the MS-8 and let it tune the system.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zako, post: 7591668, member: 629735"] The most common argument I have heard is flat frequency response. Vented box can be very useful to achieve a flat frequency response outside of car. Inside of car, you get more SPL because of cabin gain, and vented can result in exaggerated lows. I can see myself getting a vented box subwoofer once I have an advanced processor with equalizer bands centered at say 20, 35, 50Hz, etc or fully parametric or if someone designed a ported box for best (flat) response inside of my car.. Actually, to tell the truth, most likely I will stop screwing around with the sub stage components altogether and leave it as is, a budget 12 inch in a sealed box.. too much trouble for something that plays in a 60Hz-wide band and ultimately will not work perfectly (from SQ perspective) in a car on 100% of music content no matter how much you screw with it (due to buzzes and rattles "coloring" sound, cabin gain, rear sub location, etc). I can see myself adding something like an advanced processor and TrueRTA setup to flatten up the frequency response or perhaps the MS-8 and let it tune the system. [/QUOTE]
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What size box should I get / build: Sealed ft3: 0.70? IDQ10V3.D4
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