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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8752120" data-attributes="member: 614752">That wasn&#039;t so hard now, was it?Some vehicles are indeed friendlier to meter than others, but you can say the same thing about any other metering locations.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you care about competing you take that into account; for example in a wall build top center port tends to meter better at the kick than on the dash.&nbsp; Experienced competitors will have a good idea of types of vehicles and their quirks so as long as we are told the specifics of number and how it is metered we have a good idea of what is happening based on what we have experienced in person.Assuming you haven&#039;t already bought ready-made buss bars you can buss them however you like, theoretically fitting each cell wherever you have room.&nbsp; Of course that&#039;s implying you wanted to go through the trouble.&nbsp;&nbsp; Might consider mounting them spread out flat like a pack of firecrackers and they&#039;d probably slide under the seats.&nbsp; You could buy aluminum or copper bar or even just use some 1/0 cable and buy a bulk pack of cheap ring terminals.&nbsp; Of course you&#039;d need to get a bit creative to keep those terminals protected from shorting.&nbsp;&nbsp; When/if I have time to do something in my F250 I&#039;ve already decided I&#039;ll be just drilling holes to the bed and throwing bank + amp in the toolbox back there. That&#039;s not exactly accurate.&nbsp;&nbsp; 10dB is what humans perceive as &quot;twice as loud&quot; but 4dB gain (in theory) should take about 3x power or cone area to achieve.&nbsp; That does NOT take into account the greater efficiency losses as you try to get more pressure in a cabin.&nbsp; &nbsp; Nor does it take into account inefficiency from heat (which hurts efficiency after only a couple hundred watts) and from running your drivers into higher excursion.&nbsp; 148-149 is about where this starts happening.&nbsp;&nbsp; It&#039;s also where rearview mirrors start letting go.&nbsp; Again, get down to the shop and meter dB drag style at the dash with doors and windows closed just for point of reference.&nbsp;&nbsp; You may also try testing different door open positions if you care to continue competing locally.&nbsp; You will likely find that there&#039;s a sweet spot of how far to open the door where you get the best gains.&nbsp; IF you meter outlaw test outlaw and look for gains outlaw but after you do a few tests metered at the dash sealed up you will understand why it is important to make the distinction.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8752120, member: 614752"] That wasn't so hard now, was it? Some vehicles are indeed friendlier to meter than others, but you can say the same thing about any other metering locations. If you care about competing you take that into account; for example in a wall build top center port tends to meter better at the kick than on the dash. Experienced competitors will have a good idea of types of vehicles and their quirks so as long as we are told the specifics of number and how it is metered we have a good idea of what is happening based on what we have experienced in person. Assuming you haven't already bought ready-made buss bars you can buss them however you like, theoretically fitting each cell wherever you have room. Of course that's implying you wanted to go through the trouble. Might consider mounting them spread out flat like a pack of firecrackers and they'd probably slide under the seats. You could buy aluminum or copper bar or even just use some 1/0 cable and buy a bulk pack of cheap ring terminals. Of course you'd need to get a bit creative to keep those terminals protected from shorting. When/if I have time to do something in my F250 I've already decided I'll be just drilling holes to the bed and throwing bank + amp in the toolbox back there. That's not exactly accurate. 10dB is what humans perceive as "twice as loud" but 4dB gain (in theory) should take about 3x power or cone area to achieve. That does NOT take into account the greater efficiency losses as you try to get more pressure in a cabin. Nor does it take into account inefficiency from heat (which hurts efficiency after only a couple hundred watts) and from running your drivers into higher excursion. 148-149 is about where this starts happening. It's also where rearview mirrors start letting go. Again, get down to the shop and meter dB drag style at the dash with doors and windows closed just for point of reference. You may also try testing different door open positions if you care to continue competing locally. You will likely find that there's a sweet spot of how far to open the door where you get the best gains. IF you meter outlaw test outlaw and look for gains outlaw but after you do a few tests metered at the dash sealed up you will understand why it is important to make the distinction. [/QUOTE]

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