Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
voltage questions
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="SPL Blazer" data-source="post: 5719148" data-attributes="member: 587873"><p>Thats pretty common with the lower quality amps. My RF 1501bd recommends a 150 amp fuse and was tested at 1650 watts @ 14.4 volts. But some lower class amps that claim to be a 1000 or 1500 watt amp might have fuses like yours, in which case they really don't put out the power the manufacturer claims. Amps like that will brag about being a 1500 watt amp, and the ratings will say 1000 watts @ 1 ohm, 1500 watts peak, but come with an 80 amp fuse. That 1500 watts peak is pretty much a bogus number used to help sell the amp. General guidelines would be 100 watts for every 10 amps, this is true with every quality amp I've seen to date. My HK4000D amp is rated at 4000 watts and recommends a 400 amp fuse, for those that actually use a fuse for those amps, hence 4000 watts/400 amps of current draw. Of course being that this amp isn't very efficient it doesn't really push out 4,000 watts like it says so it wouldn't draw 400 amps, but you get the idea.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SPL Blazer, post: 5719148, member: 587873"] Thats pretty common with the lower quality amps. My RF 1501bd recommends a 150 amp fuse and was tested at 1650 watts @ 14.4 volts. But some lower class amps that claim to be a 1000 or 1500 watt amp might have fuses like yours, in which case they really don't put out the power the manufacturer claims. Amps like that will brag about being a 1500 watt amp, and the ratings will say 1000 watts @ 1 ohm, 1500 watts peak, but come with an 80 amp fuse. That 1500 watts peak is pretty much a bogus number used to help sell the amp. General guidelines would be 100 watts for every 10 amps, this is true with every quality amp I've seen to date. My HK4000D amp is rated at 4000 watts and recommends a 400 amp fuse, for those that actually use a fuse for those amps, hence 4000 watts/400 amps of current draw. Of course being that this amp isn't very efficient it doesn't really push out 4,000 watts like it says so it wouldn't draw 400 amps, but you get the idea. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
voltage questions
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list