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<blockquote data-quote="old_dude" data-source="post: 5719081" data-attributes="member: 608305"><p>And you're both right. However, car audio doesn't really draw voltage as much as amperage from a technical and scientific standpoint.</p><p></p><p>To get all technical here:</p><p></p><p>We all know that AC is the current which supplies the audio signal path.</p><p></p><p>And we all know that DC is the current which supplies power to each component.</p><p></p><p>1 volt will move 1 amp through 1 ohm of resistance, at a rate of 1 watt. (Since amperage is current flow per second, and therefore, a watt is rated in seconds.)</p><p></p><p>To find the current draw of an amp, you just divide the RMS total by the battery's idle voltage. For example, in a system with 250 watts RMS (125wpc rms into 4 ohms) and and electrical system with 12.6VDC, the equation would come out to 250 devided by 12.6 for a current draw of 19.84 amps.</p><p></p><p>So, even though all this sounds like a bunch of mumble jumble to most of us, it is important to know, especially when deciding on how big of power cables to run.</p><p></p><p>As for a 1500 watt amp having a 150 amp fuse, I find that hard to understand. In fact, my present 1800 watt amp only has a pair of 30 amp fuses in it.</p><p></p><p>Sorry if I sound like an idiot. And I'm certainly not here to slam anyone's opinion or expertise. Nor make enemies. My only point is that to ME (everyone else can have their priorities), amperage draw is more vital than voltage draw.</p><p></p><p>Either way, I wish the OP, taintedplay, the best of luck in getting the most out of his system.</p><p></p><p>And as for the AutoMeter gauge, I think it was more of a "cool factor" when I got it, and the fact that I had a bunch of money to waste. Which is the likely reason it won't be mounted near the dash to stare at all day, but rather in the amp rack so when I'm back their tweeking things I can judge a few things.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="old_dude, post: 5719081, member: 608305"] And you're both right. However, car audio doesn't really draw voltage as much as amperage from a technical and scientific standpoint. To get all technical here: We all know that AC is the current which supplies the audio signal path. And we all know that DC is the current which supplies power to each component. 1 volt will move 1 amp through 1 ohm of resistance, at a rate of 1 watt. (Since amperage is current flow per second, and therefore, a watt is rated in seconds.) To find the current draw of an amp, you just divide the RMS total by the battery's idle voltage. For example, in a system with 250 watts RMS (125wpc rms into 4 ohms) and and electrical system with 12.6VDC, the equation would come out to 250 devided by 12.6 for a current draw of 19.84 amps. So, even though all this sounds like a bunch of mumble jumble to most of us, it is important to know, especially when deciding on how big of power cables to run. As for a 1500 watt amp having a 150 amp fuse, I find that hard to understand. In fact, my present 1800 watt amp only has a pair of 30 amp fuses in it. Sorry if I sound like an idiot. And I'm certainly not here to slam anyone's opinion or expertise. Nor make enemies. My only point is that to ME (everyone else can have their priorities), amperage draw is more vital than voltage draw. Either way, I wish the OP, taintedplay, the best of luck in getting the most out of his system. And as for the AutoMeter gauge, I think it was more of a "cool factor" when I got it, and the fact that I had a bunch of money to waste. Which is the likely reason it won't be mounted near the dash to stare at all day, but rather in the amp rack so when I'm back their tweeking things I can judge a few things. [/QUOTE]
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