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<blockquote data-quote="quackhead" data-source="post: 7856316" data-attributes="member: 573547"><p><a href="http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1" target="_blank">#1</a> - sound deadener, sound deadener..this will not only lower the noise floor inside the vehicle and help with resonance issues, but it will reduce heat from the exhaust system as well. </p><p><a href="http://www.caraudio.com/forums/murdermat-sound-solutions/554450-murdermat-introductory-pricing.html" target="_blank">http://www.caraudio.com/forums/murdermat-sound-solutions/554450-murdermat-introductory-pricing.html</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2" target="_blank">#2</a> - possibly keep the JL 4ch. and look to components such as these for the front, keeping the rear ones you already have:</p><p><a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7163-up6-dls-ultimate-65-2-way-component-system.aspx" target="_blank">WoofersEtc.com - UP6 - DLS Ultimate 6.5" 2-Way Component System</a></p><p><a href="http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_581" target="_blank">Ultimate UP6i - 2-way component 6,5 inches</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3" target="_blank">#3</a> - I have installed the bass tubes and they su<em>c</em>k. Yeah, you get good output from little power, but the thing is a bit<em>c</em>h to mount securely. I&#39;d at least do 1 10" ported like one of these:</p><p><a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9263-sa-10-d2-sundown-audio-10-dual-2-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.aspx" target="_blank">WoofersEtc.com - SA-10 D2 - Sundown Audio 10" Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer</a></p><p>on a good compact class D like this for a solid 800-1000+w rms:</p><p><a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10139-p10001-precision-power-monoblock-2000-watts-max-class-d-amplifier.aspx" target="_blank">WoofersEtc.com - P1000.1 - Precision Power Monoblock 2000 Watts Max Class D Amplifier</a></p><p><a href="http://www.precisionpower.com/html-version/products/amps/P1000-1.html" target="_blank">PrecisionPower - Products - Amplifiers - Phantom - P1000.1</a> </p><p></p><p>you did not say what JL amp you have, but I would look to 100 - 130w/ch, like this if it rated at lesser power:</p><p><a href="http://infiniteelectronix.com/precisionpowerp9004phantom145x44ohmscompact4-channelclassdamplifier65x925x2.aspx" target="_blank">Precision Power P900.4 Phantom 145 x 4 @ 4 Ohms Compact 4-channel Class D Amplifier 6.5x9.25x2</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/1805-test-report-precision-power-p9004-amplifier-" target="_blank">PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P900.4 Amplifier</a></p><p>The main reason I suggest these PPI amps are not only because they are good quality and underrated for the $, but they are very compact...imitated, but not quite duplicated...lol.</p><p>take the remainder and get a box built and equipment professionally installed (at least the comps and door treatments, if you question your own ability)along with the deadener in the trunk and anywhere else you can get it.. @pro\-rabbit; sells custom or flat packs on the boxes for pretty reasonable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="quackhead, post: 7856316, member: 573547"] [URL=http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1[/URL] - sound deadener, sound deadener..this will not only lower the noise floor inside the vehicle and help with resonance issues, but it will reduce heat from the exhaust system as well. [url]http://www.caraudio.com/forums/murdermat-sound-solutions/554450-murdermat-introductory-pricing.html[/url] [URL=http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2]#2[/URL] - possibly keep the JL 4ch. and look to components such as these for the front, keeping the rear ones you already have: [url=http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7163-up6-dls-ultimate-65-2-way-component-system.aspx]WoofersEtc.com - UP6 - DLS Ultimate 6.5" 2-Way Component System[/url] [url=http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_581]Ultimate UP6i - 2-way component 6,5 inches[/url] [URL=http://www.caraudio.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3]#3[/URL] - I have installed the bass tubes and they su[I]c[/I]k. Yeah, you get good output from little power, but the thing is a bit[I]c[/I]h to mount securely. I'd at least do 1 10" ported like one of these: [url=http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9263-sa-10-d2-sundown-audio-10-dual-2-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.aspx]WoofersEtc.com - SA-10 D2 - Sundown Audio 10" Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer[/url] on a good compact class D like this for a solid 800-1000+w rms: [url=http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10139-p10001-precision-power-monoblock-2000-watts-max-class-d-amplifier.aspx]WoofersEtc.com - P1000.1 - Precision Power Monoblock 2000 Watts Max Class D Amplifier[/url] [url=http://www.precisionpower.com/html-version/products/amps/P1000-1.html]PrecisionPower - Products - Amplifiers - Phantom - P1000.1[/url] you did not say what JL amp you have, but I would look to 100 - 130w/ch, like this if it rated at lesser power: [url=http://infiniteelectronix.com/precisionpowerp9004phantom145x44ohmscompact4-channelclassdamplifier65x925x2.aspx]Precision Power P900.4 Phantom 145 x 4 @ 4 Ohms Compact 4-channel Class D Amplifier 6.5x9.25x2[/url] [url=http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/1805-test-report-precision-power-p9004-amplifier-]PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P900.4 Amplifier[/url] The main reason I suggest these PPI amps are not only because they are good quality and underrated for the $, but they are very compact...imitated, but not quite duplicated...lol. take the remainder and get a box built and equipment professionally installed (at least the comps and door treatments, if you question your own ability)along with the deadener in the trunk and anywhere else you can get it.. @pro\-rabbit; sells custom or flat packs on the boxes for pretty reasonable. [/QUOTE]
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