Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Upgrade from hertz to vibe / ohms law
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8676636" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>again. Distortion is not actual static or anything fuzzy or whatever you think it is. Distortion is peaks in the frequency response Most average normal people have no idea what distortion sounds like and think its a huge change, it literally sounds the same but with slightly harsh peaks here and there in the frequency response like if the SSS and SHHH sounds come from smooth and silky to "okay that scratched my ear drum a bit, its pretty loud but it still sounds like normal music"</p><p></p><p>The only reason why your tweeters popped is because you clipped the amp and signal, they dont pop for no reason. If you watched the video at all and actually learned anything. those 2 volts along with power drop due to voltage drop and having an actual load in the amp would completely put the amp into clipping giving a dirty signal. Tweeters dont just pop and you are too stubborn to admit that its your own user error that popped these tweeters.</p><p></p><p>Remember that amps are rated at 14.4 volts, your car might even have trouble staying at 13.8 and with the system at full tilt you might even drop down to 12 volt range.... at 12.8 volts the amp is not going to do 150 watts more like 120 ish, however your gain setting is telling the amp to do 150 watts. Your amp literally is overdriven to hard clipping which means POP bye bye tweeters. No the crossover only splits the signal up, it doesn't magically cure clipping and dirty clipped signals from the amp. You say skip the noob stuff but you literally are just clipping and you have a hard time accepting it.</p><p></p><p>signal to noise is how susceptible the amp is to alternator whine and hiss noises caused by the vehicle electrical system. The higher the better.</p><p></p><p>Sensitivity is how loud the speaker gets </p><p></p><p>Speaker FS is the lowest it can play meaning your high pass crossover should be double this value for safety reasons for the mids.</p><p></p><p>Literally none of those values will help you in anything with your gain setting. Its back to square 1. IDK how else to put it. you can just keep doing what you are doing and keep blowing stuff though.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8676636, member: 650438"] again. Distortion is not actual static or anything fuzzy or whatever you think it is. Distortion is peaks in the frequency response Most average normal people have no idea what distortion sounds like and think its a huge change, it literally sounds the same but with slightly harsh peaks here and there in the frequency response like if the SSS and SHHH sounds come from smooth and silky to "okay that scratched my ear drum a bit, its pretty loud but it still sounds like normal music" The only reason why your tweeters popped is because you clipped the amp and signal, they dont pop for no reason. If you watched the video at all and actually learned anything. those 2 volts along with power drop due to voltage drop and having an actual load in the amp would completely put the amp into clipping giving a dirty signal. Tweeters dont just pop and you are too stubborn to admit that its your own user error that popped these tweeters. Remember that amps are rated at 14.4 volts, your car might even have trouble staying at 13.8 and with the system at full tilt you might even drop down to 12 volt range.... at 12.8 volts the amp is not going to do 150 watts more like 120 ish, however your gain setting is telling the amp to do 150 watts. Your amp literally is overdriven to hard clipping which means POP bye bye tweeters. No the crossover only splits the signal up, it doesn't magically cure clipping and dirty clipped signals from the amp. You say skip the noob stuff but you literally are just clipping and you have a hard time accepting it. signal to noise is how susceptible the amp is to alternator whine and hiss noises caused by the vehicle electrical system. The higher the better. Sensitivity is how loud the speaker gets Speaker FS is the lowest it can play meaning your high pass crossover should be double this value for safety reasons for the mids. Literally none of those values will help you in anything with your gain setting. Its back to square 1. IDK how else to put it. you can just keep doing what you are doing and keep blowing stuff though. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Upgrade from hertz to vibe / ohms law
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh