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Upgrade from hertz to vibe / ohms law
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<blockquote data-quote="Drumznbass" data-source="post: 8676631" data-attributes="member: 677176"><p>Jheez I was off by like 2 volts it was over a year ago and that works out at something like an extra 1-2db doesn't it? I was off by 10watts man.</p><p></p><p>does it really matter?? Is 2volts worth of memory loss worth talking to me like I haven't a clue what I'm doing?</p><p></p><p>maybe I should of mentioned I popped all them tweeters during the virgin weeks of the set up and getting greedy and trying to squeeze more power out. Then I got the decent mid level Hertz DP4 which has enough juice for anything I'm ever gonna put in. </p><p></p><p>This is why I'm asking about the figures. Anyone who's got any common sense who's involved with music knows a gain isn't a volume knob. So by turning the gain and increasing voltage output of the amp, hits the crossover and when the tweeter components have all failed and the tweeters (but not the woofers) too then obviously I'm curious to understanding what the figures given in the manual relate to how the tweeter side of the signal is the first to pop with no warning, smells or distortion.</p><p></p><p>you sound like you're into the car audio **** with what you've told me about your set up. You most likely have more knowledge than me but just telling me to listen for distortion when setting gains doesn't help the fact that things are popping before any distortion hits on the tops. </p><p></p><p>So on that spec sheet for tweeters some of them numbers must me telling me something. </p><p></p><p>Lets stop going round in circles about noob stuff. I've got a sub running well past it's rms and hits over its peak sometimes but sounds great. I just wanna figure out what's happening with the signal from the amp to cause tweeters advertised at 150rms, reduced by 2db at the cross over and set at 3.3k to pop with no prior warning after a year of working fine and not getting rinsed to death?</p><p></p><p>Signal to noise % </p><p></p><p>sensitivity etc </p><p></p><p>dont these have a part to play and why isn't the crossover taking care of reducing any extra signal? That's it's job after all. </p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Drumznbass, post: 8676631, member: 677176"] Jheez I was off by like 2 volts it was over a year ago and that works out at something like an extra 1-2db doesn't it? I was off by 10watts man. does it really matter?? Is 2volts worth of memory loss worth talking to me like I haven't a clue what I'm doing? maybe I should of mentioned I popped all them tweeters during the virgin weeks of the set up and getting greedy and trying to squeeze more power out. Then I got the decent mid level Hertz DP4 which has enough juice for anything I'm ever gonna put in. This is why I'm asking about the figures. Anyone who's got any common sense who's involved with music knows a gain isn't a volume knob. So by turning the gain and increasing voltage output of the amp, hits the crossover and when the tweeter components have all failed and the tweeters (but not the woofers) too then obviously I'm curious to understanding what the figures given in the manual relate to how the tweeter side of the signal is the first to pop with no warning, smells or distortion. you sound like you're into the car audio **** with what you've told me about your set up. You most likely have more knowledge than me but just telling me to listen for distortion when setting gains doesn't help the fact that things are popping before any distortion hits on the tops. So on that spec sheet for tweeters some of them numbers must me telling me something. Lets stop going round in circles about noob stuff. I've got a sub running well past it's rms and hits over its peak sometimes but sounds great. I just wanna figure out what's happening with the signal from the amp to cause tweeters advertised at 150rms, reduced by 2db at the cross over and set at 3.3k to pop with no prior warning after a year of working fine and not getting rinsed to death? Signal to noise % sensitivity etc dont these have a part to play and why isn't the crossover taking care of reducing any extra signal? That's it's job after all. [/QUOTE]
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