Unfortunate Event :/ Need some advice

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

So recently I had my truck broken into at school, and my subs and amps were stolen. Fortunately they left the head unit and door speakers, but since my speakers are powered by an amp and they took the amp, those no longer work. I'm looking into replacing my system, what I had were 2 Kicker CVR12s, and a 1600watt amp for the subs, and an 800watt amp for the door speakers. The 800watt amp powered 4 speakers so I'm assuming it was a four channel amp. I'm pretty set on getting CVR12s again, as I loved them. They were 4ohm subs, and the sub amp was 2-channel. So here are the questions I have, I could really use some help.

I was wondering if I need to get 4ohm subs again, whats the difference between the 4ohm and 2ohm subs? As far as an amplifier, I have no idea what to look for. Do I need another 1600watt amp? I feel like if I don't have max power running to the subs they won't be as loud. If I were to go with a 1000watt amp would the sound be noticeably different? What brands of amplifiers tend to be better, but not too expensive(as in under $200). For the door speaker amplifier what kind should i get?

Any input you guys have would be really helpful, thank you!!

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[Rich B 5,000+ posts]

So recently I had my truck broken into at school, and my subs and amps were stolen. Fortunately they left the head unit and door speakers, but since my speakers are powered by an amp and they took the amp, those no longer work. I'm looking into replacing my system, what I had were 2 Kicker CVR12s, and a 1600watt amp for the subs, and an 800watt amp for the door speakers. The 800watt amp powered 4 speakers so I'm assuming it was a four channel amp. I'm pretty set on getting CVR12s again, as I loved them. They were 4ohm subs, and the sub amp was 2-channel. So here are the questions I have, I could really use some help.
I was wondering if I need to get 4ohm subs again, whats the difference between the 4ohm and 2ohm subs? As far as an amplifier, I have no idea what to look for. Do I need another 1600watt amp? I feel like if I don't have max power running to the subs they won't be as loud. If I were to go with a 1000watt amp would the sound be noticeably different? What brands of amplifiers tend to be better, but not too expensive(as in under $200). For the door speaker amplifier what kind should i get?

Any input you guys have would be really helpful, thank you!!

Wrong section, this is the for sale section.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Mods will move it to the right place.

The ohm config on the subs has to do with what ohm load stable and what type of amp you have.

If I were you I'd get dual 2ohm CVRs and do a mono 2ohm stable amp. The only difference really being that you can get more power without spending as much money vs a higher end multi-channel amp.

A lot of the second half of your question is completely dependant on what brand and model amps you had before. If they were cheap amps and the 1600/800w ratings were 'max wattage' ratings they were actually BS numbers and you were pushing a lot less than that. Lots of cheap (Sony, JBL, HiFonics, AP, Jensen, etc) 1600w amps are actually roughly 300w RMS amps (some are more than this but it could be as low as this depending on brand). If it was a rated or under-rated amp, that's a different story (Kicker, RF, Sundown, Memphis, etc). These amps could be putting out anywhere from 1700-2000w RMS.

Again, its all in what you pay for. Amps that are externally fused are pretty simple to do a rough estimate on their true capabilities. If a 1600w amp has 2 40A fuses, then it's actually going to put out about 800w RMS (40+40=80x10=800)[Just add up the entire fusing and move the decimal over one place or multiply by 10] Some amps are internally fused, but most of these are in the good category and at least do rated, just pretty much stay away from anything that has a huge MAX x#watts on it.

On to door speakers, you need a good multi-channel amp again. These can get costly quick if you are buying good brands. A clean power 4ch putting out 50-100w or a 2ch putting 100-200w per channel would be a good place to start and hopefully stay in your price range.

 

[SacTownBully84 10+ year member]

VOLTAGE x AMPS = watts.....i dont know why u said ten?...cars charge @ 13.7-14.7

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

VOLTAGE x AMPS = watts.....i dont know why u said ten?...cars charge @ 13.7-14.7

Fuses on amps are on the signal current, not the input current. It's generally accepted to take the fuse rating on the amp (not the inline fuse feeding the amp) and multiply it by ten to figure out what RMS wattage it will be giving the speakers.

To properly fuse the in line fuse, yes you should use 15v max as a base, that way you should never pop it under normal operation, but if the amp goes haywire, fuse will pop and you won't start burning up things in your car. (Does not apply to 16, 18 and 20v systems)

 

[SacTownBully84 10+ year member]

not all amps use "inline" fuses.....the amps that the OP will more than likely use will have onboard fuses....my crescendo 1000c4 is fused (onboard) for 90 amps, they rate the amp @ 13.8 volts and @ 2ohms it produces 250w per channel...that makes 1000RMS total...90x13.8 = 1242....so where does the "10" come into play?...im curious

 

[the9876543 10+ year member]

10V works, although commonly I'll use 11 volts. The efficiency of an amp is usually around 80-85%. Manufacturers usually use 13.8V nowadays for their ratings, so like you said:

1000 WRMS rated @ 13.8V. 90A fuse.

P= 90A x 13.8V=1242 watts, exactly as you said.

Now multiply by the decimal equivalent of the efficiency. For this, I'll assume 80% efficiency. 80%=.80

.80 x 1242 watts = 993 watts

Now, 11V x 90 amps = 990 watts. Pretty close. Also close the factory spec. It depends on the efficiency, but honestly, if you want a quick method, 11V works fine in most cases and is still very easy to multiply in your head. 10V by all means works as well, and for cheaper amps I suppose it maybe better, as efficiency will most likely be lower.

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

So would i need two 2ohm mono amps? How do you run two subs off of one amp? And the amps I had before were not name brand, they were zedition, I think its a company in Riverside that makes them because that's where the stuff was originally installed. All I know is that the subs were pretty loud in my opinion, but then again I don't have much to compare them to.

Wouldn't it be easier to run the subs off of a 2-channel amp, rather than 2 mono amps?

 

[Liquid Bass 10+ year member]

Mods will move it to the right place. The ohm config on the subs has to do with what ohm load stable and what type of amp you have.

If I were you I'd get dual 2ohm CVRs and do a mono 2ohm stable amp. The only difference really being that you can get more power without spending as much money vs a higher end multi-channel amp.

A lot of the second half of your question is completely dependant on what brand and model amps you had before. If they were cheap amps and the 1600/800w ratings were 'max wattage' ratings they were actually BS numbers and you were pushing a lot less than that. Lots of cheap (Sony, JBL, HiFonics, AP, Jensen, etc) 1600w amps are actually roughly 300w RMS amps (some are more than this but it could be as low as this depending on brand). If it was a rated or under-rated amp, that's a different story (Kicker, RF, Sundown, Memphis, etc). These amps could be putting out anywhere from 1700-2000w RMS.

Again, its all in what you pay for. Amps that are externally fused are pretty simple to do a rough estimate on their true capabilities. If a 1600w amp has 2 40A fuses, then it's actually going to put out about 800w RMS (40+40=80x10=800)[Just add up the entire fusing and move the decimal over one place or multiply by 10] Some amps are internally fused, but most of these are in the good category and at least do rated, just pretty much stay away from anything that has a huge MAX x#watts on it.

On to door speakers, you need a good multi-channel amp again. These can get costly quick if you are buying good brands. A clean power 4ch putting out 50-100w or a 2ch putting 100-200w per channel would be a good place to start and hopefully stay in your price range.

Really lol?

 

[Trancer 10+ year member]

Sorry to get off topic about your question, but what HeadUnit did you have to make them say, "Oh F that cd player, lets leave it and only steal the amp and subs!"????

Yes, I think its relevant.

 

[silveradokid 10+ year member]

Sorry to get off topic about your question, but what HeadUnit did you have to make them say, "Oh F that cd player, lets leave it and only steal the amp and subs!"????
Yes, I think its relevant.

Haha, well its not anything super special. I don't think its very expensive, it's a valor 7" flip out dvd player/cd/auxiliary. I think that they just took the subs because they were easy to get to, the head unit would have taken more time to get out. Or maybe they thought to themselves, "we already stole enough of this kids stuff, we'll leave him with the head unit even though he still won't be able to listen to music." //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif just maybe

 

[dkdub 10+ year member]

First thing is, yes you can wire two subs to a single mono amp. dig around this side a little bit and learn about wiring multiple subs to amplifiers, there's a ton of threads on the how to.

Second thing, don't listen to all the nuthuggers on the board that tell you you need to buy X brand when you want Y brand. Get out and listen to different setups and find one that you like. If an 10000watt ILS amp and some thumpomatic subs is what you want, then do it. Just install them correctly.

 

[teamquakecelica 10+ year member]

10V works, although commonly I'll use 11 volts. The efficiency of an amp is usually around 80-85%. Manufacturers usually use 13.8V nowadays for their ratings, so like you said:
1000 WRMS rated @ 13.8V. 90A fuse.

P= 90A x 13.8V=1242 watts, exactly as you said.

Now multiply by the decimal equivalent of the efficiency. For this, I'll assume 80% efficiency. 80%=.80

.80 x 1242 watts = 993 watts

Now, 11V x 90 amps = 990 watts. Pretty close. Also close the factory spec. It depends on the efficiency, but honestly, if you want a quick method, 11V works fine in most cases and is still very easy to multiply in your head. 10V by all means works as well, and for cheaper amps I suppose it maybe better, as efficiency will most likely be lower.

ya... most class A-B amps.. like the cresendo.. are not even close to 85% efficient.. try more like 50-60%.. class d may reach 85%.. I always use the 10 multiplier for a GENERAL GAUGE as to the RMS.. but it can be off sometimes..