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<blockquote data-quote="wickedwitt" data-source="post: 7252385" data-attributes="member: 622908">Mods will move it to the right place.The ohm config on the subs has to do with what ohm load stable and what type of amp you have.If I were you I&#039;d get dual 2ohm CVRs and do a mono 2ohm stable amp. The only difference really being that you can get more power without spending as much money vs a higher end multi-channel amp.A lot of the second half of your question is completely dependant on what brand and model amps you had before. If they were cheap amps and the 1600/800w ratings were &#039;max wattage&#039; ratings they were actually BS numbers and you were pushing a lot less than that. Lots of cheap (Sony, JBL, HiFonics, AP, Jensen, etc) 1600w amps are actually roughly 300w RMS amps (some are more than this but it could be as low as this depending on brand). If it was a rated or under-rated amp, that&#039;s a different story (Kicker, RF, Sundown, Memphis, etc). These amps could be putting out anywhere from 1700-2000w RMS.Again, its all in what you pay for. Amps that are externally fused are pretty simple to do a rough estimate on their true capabilities. If a 1600w amp has 2 40A fuses, then it&#039;s actually going to put out about 800w RMS (40+40=80x10=800)[Just add up the entire fusing and move the decimal over one place or multiply by 10] Some amps are internally fused, but most of these are in the good category and at least do rated, just pretty much stay away from anything that has a huge MAX x#watts on it.On to door speakers, you need a good multi-channel amp again. These can get costly quick if you are buying good brands. A clean power 4ch putting out 50-100w or a 2ch putting 100-200w per channel would be a good place to start and hopefully stay in your price range.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="wickedwitt, post: 7252385, member: 622908"] Mods will move it to the right place. The ohm config on the subs has to do with what ohm load stable and what type of amp you have. If I were you I'd get dual 2ohm CVRs and do a mono 2ohm stable amp. The only difference really being that you can get more power without spending as much money vs a higher end multi-channel amp. A lot of the second half of your question is completely dependant on what brand and model amps you had before. If they were cheap amps and the 1600/800w ratings were 'max wattage' ratings they were actually BS numbers and you were pushing a lot less than that. Lots of cheap (Sony, JBL, HiFonics, AP, Jensen, etc) 1600w amps are actually roughly 300w RMS amps (some are more than this but it could be as low as this depending on brand). If it was a rated or under-rated amp, that's a different story (Kicker, RF, Sundown, Memphis, etc). These amps could be putting out anywhere from 1700-2000w RMS. Again, its all in what you pay for. Amps that are externally fused are pretty simple to do a rough estimate on their true capabilities. If a 1600w amp has 2 40A fuses, then it's actually going to put out about 800w RMS (40+40=80x10=800)[Just add up the entire fusing and move the decimal over one place or multiply by 10] Some amps are internally fused, but most of these are in the good category and at least do rated, just pretty much stay away from anything that has a huge MAX x#watts on it. On to door speakers, you need a good multi-channel amp again. These can get costly quick if you are buying good brands. A clean power 4ch putting out 50-100w or a 2ch putting 100-200w per channel would be a good place to start and hopefully stay in your price range. [/QUOTE]

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