Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Tuning freq for my 12W7
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="CarAudioGuru" data-source="post: 4970103" data-attributes="member: 600532"><p>There is NO perfect box. Nor is there the "optimum" box. Because of the ambient noise floor inherent in most cars -road noise transmitted thru the tires, into the body into the interior (more expensive cars have better sound dampening).</p><p></p><p>IF you drive around in a typical vehicle (lets say a Honda Accord, or Toyota Camry) you would see RTA curves with 20-30 dB of boost below 150Hz referenced to 1,000Hz.</p><p></p><p>I can tell you that because I do that test all the time to show retailers what is going on in vehicles.</p><p></p><p>And why they seem to have really good tight bass, evenly balanced while DRIVING, and then when you stop the bass is almost over powering the mids and highs.</p><p></p><p>You just need 20 dB more gain below 150 Hz to make it sound "flat" at least spectrally.</p><p></p><p>I mean, how many of your friends have 1000 watt 15 inch powered subwoofers at home in their "theater system"???</p><p></p><p>But how many guys do you know with 1000 watt sub amps for their cars??</p><p></p><p>Don't you think that is weird?? Not make sense???</p><p></p><p>Ambient noise field in cars is MUCH higher than at home, therefore we need more power , "gain" at low frequencies to compensate.</p><p></p><p>So vented tends to be my choice , just because of the free gain. Not totally "audiophile", but in normal systems, with normal guys, PERFECT.</p><p></p><p>IF you are hard core audiophile, I'd go sealed. .707 Qtc. A little "lean"sounding for most people, I think.</p><p></p><p>Cars are MUCH tougher to design subwoofer systems for than home. That is for sure.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CarAudioGuru, post: 4970103, member: 600532"] There is NO perfect box. Nor is there the "optimum" box. Because of the ambient noise floor inherent in most cars -road noise transmitted thru the tires, into the body into the interior (more expensive cars have better sound dampening). IF you drive around in a typical vehicle (lets say a Honda Accord, or Toyota Camry) you would see RTA curves with 20-30 dB of boost below 150Hz referenced to 1,000Hz. I can tell you that because I do that test all the time to show retailers what is going on in vehicles. And why they seem to have really good tight bass, evenly balanced while DRIVING, and then when you stop the bass is almost over powering the mids and highs. You just need 20 dB more gain below 150 Hz to make it sound "flat" at least spectrally. I mean, how many of your friends have 1000 watt 15 inch powered subwoofers at home in their "theater system"??? But how many guys do you know with 1000 watt sub amps for their cars?? Don't you think that is weird?? Not make sense??? Ambient noise field in cars is MUCH higher than at home, therefore we need more power , "gain" at low frequencies to compensate. So vented tends to be my choice , just because of the free gain. Not totally "audiophile", but in normal systems, with normal guys, PERFECT. IF you are hard core audiophile, I'd go sealed. .707 Qtc. A little "lean"sounding for most people, I think. Cars are MUCH tougher to design subwoofer systems for than home. That is for sure. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
Tuning freq for my 12W7
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list