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<blockquote data-quote="CarAudioGuru" data-source="post: 4971613" data-attributes="member: 600532">More is ALWAYS better..too a point.&nbsp; Dynamic headroom makes everything sound better.But.....350 watts can start melting things (caps, Coils, PCB)&nbsp; if you a &quot;Balls to the Walls&quot; kind of guy.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gifIF you listen to REAL music (and my guess is you do since you have MKL165&#039;s)Under &quot;Dynamic conditions -also called &quot;Crest Factor&quot; even if you were swinging34.7 volts *301 watts into a 4 ohm load.&nbsp; With &quot;Music&quot; the average continuous watts would only be 30 watts.&nbsp; So NO biggee.Then if you can afford it, go BIG!&nbsp; Bi-amping is another choice that works well too.Also, dampening the doors (DynaMat, Second Skin, Hush Mat, etc) is a MUST.That actually makes a HUGE difference, especially with our speakers.Fs is 59Hz on ML165&#039;s.&nbsp; They will tear your doors apart.&nbsp; Rattle the shit out of them.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="CarAudioGuru, post: 4971613, member: 600532"] More is ALWAYS better..too a point. Dynamic headroom makes everything sound better. But.....350 watts can start melting things (caps, Coils, PCB) if you a "Balls to the Walls" kind of guy.[IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif[/IMG] IF you listen to REAL music (and my guess is you do since you have MKL165's) Under "Dynamic conditions -also called "Crest Factor" even if you were swinging 34.7 volts *301 watts into a 4 ohm load. With "Music" the average continuous watts would only be 30 watts. So NO biggee. Then if you can afford it, go BIG! Bi-amping is another choice that works well too. Also, dampening the doors (DynaMat, Second Skin, Hush Mat, etc) is a MUST. That actually makes a HUGE difference, especially with our speakers. Fs is 59Hz on ML165's. They will tear your doors apart. Rattle the shit out of them. [/QUOTE]

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