JimJ
5,000+ posts
Tangled Up in Blue
might want to check your link...
I wouldn't comment on that one...
But I have a Rigid table saw that I got from Home Depot, and it's a real nice tool.
You can stand a nickel on it's side, start the saw up, and it won't disturb the nickel.
It's also got a built in lockable roller-base, so when you step on the pedal, it sets down on four feet, solidly on the ground - but when it's not locked down, you can roll it around - out of the garage and into the driveway for easy cleaning, for example.
Home Depot had it on sale near me for less than $500!
But I have a Rigid table saw that I got from Home Depot, and it's a real nice tool.
You can stand a nickel on it's side, start the saw up, and it won't disturb the nickel.
It's also got a built in lockable roller-base, so when you step on the pedal, it sets down on four feet, solidly on the ground - but when it's not locked down, you can roll it around - out of the garage and into the driveway for easy cleaning, for example.
Home Depot had it on sale near me for less than $500!
Abel
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
That is a nice table saw i have the same one for work. no problems as of yet!
maylar
10+ year member
Electrical Weenie
It doesn't say what the rip capacity is.
I have a 10" Sears saw that's similar to the $400 Delta unit they sell. Cast iron table and stamped steel extension wings. A table saw is not a panel saw. It's still a real pita to handle full sized sheets of plywood or MDF. You need lotsa room around the saw to maneuver. You need roller stands to support long pieces. The standard mitre gage is too small to give good support when crosscutting - you'll hafta make extensions or a sliding panel handler.
Bottom line is don't expect to handle full size sheets any easier than with a circular saw. I use Home Depot to ROUGH cut my material then use the table saw to trim to exact dimensions. Wouldn't wanna be without one. Go for it.
I have a 10" Sears saw that's similar to the $400 Delta unit they sell. Cast iron table and stamped steel extension wings. A table saw is not a panel saw. It's still a real pita to handle full sized sheets of plywood or MDF. You need lotsa room around the saw to maneuver. You need roller stands to support long pieces. The standard mitre gage is too small to give good support when crosscutting - you'll hafta make extensions or a sliding panel handler.
Bottom line is don't expect to handle full size sheets any easier than with a circular saw. I use Home Depot to ROUGH cut my material then use the table saw to trim to exact dimensions. Wouldn't wanna be without one. Go for it.
g30ffr3y
10+ year member
soul destroyer
ive got a Ryobi that i got at home depot for 179.99...
the only thing... and i mean only thing i dont like is the rip fence
is kinda short at 20"... but other than that...
if youre not a professional craftsman and just want to get
a nice table saw for building enclosures and stuff there is no
real reason to spend 500.00 bucks...
btw... having a tabe saw at all makes box building that much easier
and that much more fun!!!
the only thing... and i mean only thing i dont like is the rip fence
is kinda short at 20"... but other than that...
if youre not a professional craftsman and just want to get
a nice table saw for building enclosures and stuff there is no
real reason to spend 500.00 bucks...
btw... having a tabe saw at all makes box building that much easier
and that much more fun!!!
We had that $179 Ryobi saw at a shop I've worked at...
The fence did **** pretty bad, it didn't have much structure as far as an actual "table" goes (and I wasn't a fan of all the movable bits), and it ended up falling apart after literally just several months... which didn't say good things about the supplied hardware.
I think it currently sets on top of a workbench, since the hardware holding it to it's legs all came loose...
Granted, there's a big jump in price from a table saw like that to a "real" table saw... but if you consider that it's the difference between a table saw you'll likely be replacing in the next year or two, compared to one that you might pass on to your own children some day - there's some real value to be had.
And also, you CAN work a single sheet of MDF if you are careful about it, and have the proper accessories.
I picked up a Rigid outfeed table for mine, to support the wood after it passes beyond the blade - and that alone is indispensible. I want to say that was about $20.
The fence did **** pretty bad, it didn't have much structure as far as an actual "table" goes (and I wasn't a fan of all the movable bits), and it ended up falling apart after literally just several months... which didn't say good things about the supplied hardware.
I think it currently sets on top of a workbench, since the hardware holding it to it's legs all came loose...
Granted, there's a big jump in price from a table saw like that to a "real" table saw... but if you consider that it's the difference between a table saw you'll likely be replacing in the next year or two, compared to one that you might pass on to your own children some day - there's some real value to be had.
And also, you CAN work a single sheet of MDF if you are careful about it, and have the proper accessories.
I picked up a Rigid outfeed table for mine, to support the wood after it passes beyond the blade - and that alone is indispensible. I want to say that was about $20.
- Thread Starter
- #9
so am i right in saying u can take everything off the table except the saw itself and ahve the extension tables to guide as well and your good?
Randy Savage
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Let me tell you...I've used a table saw to do over 15 boxes....and the last one I just built, I used a circular with a nice lockdown guide...much easier to work with and just as precise....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
If you take your time, and clamp a straight edge to a sheet of MDF to follow, your going to be better off then on a tablesaw. Now ripping a 2x4, is near to impossible with a skill saw, but MDF is definately conquerable.
nismboy6986
10+ year member
the **** technician
thats what i'm going to do for my next box. the guy at lowes actually did a pretty good job on my last 3. luckly for me the guy was in to stereos himself so he knew how important it was to have it done right. i have so much spare mdf taking up space in my storage house i'm going to just buy a carbide blade for the skil saw and clamp a nother piece of mdf to the peice i'm cutting as a guide. you guys are lucky to have such nice tools to do your boxes with. i just have a drill, skil saw, a jigsaw and i had to do it outside on a picnic table
- Thread Starter
- #13
do u REALLY need a carbide blade? or can u just go slowly on a straight edge?
Carbide just makes the blade last longer.
MDF is pretty brutal on blades.
They do sell fences that clamp to your MDF workpiece - if you position that accurately, and guide the saw along it, your cut should be nice and straight.
Some circular saws come with guides that slide into their bases - but they only extend out about 15" at best, and I've never trusted them.
A table saw is certainly the easiest - you slide the guide along the scale, and lock it down at exactly the measurement you want - and that's what you get.
But like everything - there's more than one way to skin a cat.
MDF is pretty brutal on blades.
They do sell fences that clamp to your MDF workpiece - if you position that accurately, and guide the saw along it, your cut should be nice and straight.
Some circular saws come with guides that slide into their bases - but they only extend out about 15" at best, and I've never trusted them.
A table saw is certainly the easiest - you slide the guide along the scale, and lock it down at exactly the measurement you want - and that's what you get.
But like everything - there's more than one way to skin a cat.
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