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<blockquote data-quote="jondavidf" data-source="post: 8667801" data-attributes="member: 676420">Thanks for the reply and info!  After ordering the pin switches I realized they had to go to ground so I understand your explanation perfectly now!  It turns out that the trunk is already wired for a trunk light so I just plan to use that 12V source to switch the relay(s).  Good call on the override switch, too!Thanks for the tip on which speakers go NC and which ones go NO.  I thought I may have to trial-and-error that part.  Do you think it’s okay just to run the speaker positive wires through the relay(s) but run the negatives straight to the amp?What do you think about needing a flyback or quenching diode across 85 and 86?  I understand the logic but don’t think I risk any harm to the audio system by not having them.  If you do think I should get them do you have a recommendation on which ones specifically to get?Thanks again for all the help!Jon</blockquote>

[QUOTE="jondavidf, post: 8667801, member: 676420"] Thanks for the reply and info! After ordering the pin switches I realized they had to go to ground so I understand your explanation perfectly now! It turns out that the trunk is already wired for a trunk light so I just plan to use that 12V source to switch the relay(s). Good call on the override switch, too! Thanks for the tip on which speakers go NC and which ones go NO. I thought I may have to trial-and-error that part. Do you think it’s okay just to run the speaker positive wires through the relay(s) but run the negatives straight to the amp? What do you think about needing a flyback or quenching diode across 85 and 86? I understand the logic but don’t think I risk any harm to the audio system by not having them. If you do think I should get them do you have a recommendation on which ones specifically to get? Thanks again for all the help! Jon [/QUOTE]

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