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Subwoofer Not Hitting Hard
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8294942" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>amp settings: 3rd and 4th channel X-over should be set at Low pass (LP/BP) turn the low pass knob to halfway. Then start setting the gain knob via DMM method.</p><p></p><p>Head unit settings: Make sure your subwoofer level is all the way up on the head unit, bass boost off on the head unit, Equalization set to completely flat. Low pass filter 80.</p><p></p><p>set the gains with a digital multi-meter, google up the DMM method.</p><p></p><p>To be honest, I just dont see this setup working well at all.</p><p></p><p>You have a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub that gives you the option to wire it in series (positive to negative jumper) that gives you an 8 ohm load which is horrible for getting any type of power going to it. Other option is to wire in parallel (pos to pos, neg to neg) This gives you a 2 ohm load which is fine for monoblock subwoofer amps. However in your case, your trying to bridge 2 channels of a 4 channel amp. When you bridge them, they are only 4 ohm stable. If you've wired it parallel, your amps will overheat and not make the power it should through loss of heat and efficiency. If you wired it in series, your barely getting 100 ish watts to the sub which is not even enough to tickle it.</p><p></p><p>If you have your sub in a prebuilt sealed enclosure, you'll need a lot of power to get it slamming. Positioning of the box is important too. You need to face it to the trunk and put it close around 6 inches from the trunk lid.</p><p></p><p>you have a few options to get some level of bass in your car. SET THE GAINS PROPERLY FOR EVERY OPTION YOU DO.</p><p></p><p>1: hook that sub wired parallel to only 1 rear channel of the amp so that channel sees a 2 ohm load which its stable at when its not bridged.</p><p></p><p>2: Get a proper subwoofer amp for your sub and use all 4 channels on your current amp for all your car speakers instead.</p><p></p><p>3: build an intricate and efficient T-line enclosure that will get you loud and sounding good on very little power(takes up a lot of space though)</p><p></p><p>4: get another 4 ohm sub and wire each sub parallel to each channel(each channel sees 2 ohms) getting you around 200 rms to each sub.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8294942, member: 650438"] amp settings: 3rd and 4th channel X-over should be set at Low pass (LP/BP) turn the low pass knob to halfway. Then start setting the gain knob via DMM method. Head unit settings: Make sure your subwoofer level is all the way up on the head unit, bass boost off on the head unit, Equalization set to completely flat. Low pass filter 80. set the gains with a digital multi-meter, google up the DMM method. To be honest, I just dont see this setup working well at all. You have a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub that gives you the option to wire it in series (positive to negative jumper) that gives you an 8 ohm load which is horrible for getting any type of power going to it. Other option is to wire in parallel (pos to pos, neg to neg) This gives you a 2 ohm load which is fine for monoblock subwoofer amps. However in your case, your trying to bridge 2 channels of a 4 channel amp. When you bridge them, they are only 4 ohm stable. If you've wired it parallel, your amps will overheat and not make the power it should through loss of heat and efficiency. If you wired it in series, your barely getting 100 ish watts to the sub which is not even enough to tickle it. If you have your sub in a prebuilt sealed enclosure, you'll need a lot of power to get it slamming. Positioning of the box is important too. You need to face it to the trunk and put it close around 6 inches from the trunk lid. you have a few options to get some level of bass in your car. SET THE GAINS PROPERLY FOR EVERY OPTION YOU DO. 1: hook that sub wired parallel to only 1 rear channel of the amp so that channel sees a 2 ohm load which its stable at when its not bridged. 2: Get a proper subwoofer amp for your sub and use all 4 channels on your current amp for all your car speakers instead. 3: build an intricate and efficient T-line enclosure that will get you loud and sounding good on very little power(takes up a lot of space though) 4: get another 4 ohm sub and wire each sub parallel to each channel(each channel sees 2 ohms) getting you around 200 rms to each sub. [/QUOTE]
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