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Stock alternator/electrical system questions
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<blockquote data-quote="r0llinlacs" data-source="post: 7490231" data-attributes="member: 636634"><p>My alternator is 80 amps as well. When I first installed my 1000/1, I had 8gauge ran from my previous amp. The 1000/1 would go into low-voltage protection, which doesn't happen until it drops to 9 volts, which is ridiculously low.</p><p></p><p>I ran 0 gauge and grounded my battery to the chassis with 0 gauge, and problem "fixed". Well, the cutting out that is. The voltage drop is still there, it's just not as bad anymore. It's still ridiculous, but not as bad. I've gotten the low-voltage protection maybe three times since then, and that was with headlights on and heater on 2. I can make my headlights look like a strobe light with the right song. If idling at 800rpm, full load from the amp will drop it to 500rpms or less. Even funner when you're trying to pass someone and the car just won't go because of the amp. Forget the AC, heat, rear defrost, or anything else that ***** juice while you're playing music.</p><p></p><p>My guess is, you will be in the same boat as me. The only thing that will keep my (and your) voltage up is an HO alternator. Extra batteries are a no-no, and caps really aren't any better for your alternator that is already under a heavy load. Thicker wires help with the voltage drop, but that's it, it only helps. A HO alternator is the only true fix, and if you get one, you won't need any extra batteries or caps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="r0llinlacs, post: 7490231, member: 636634"] My alternator is 80 amps as well. When I first installed my 1000/1, I had 8gauge ran from my previous amp. The 1000/1 would go into low-voltage protection, which doesn't happen until it drops to 9 volts, which is ridiculously low. I ran 0 gauge and grounded my battery to the chassis with 0 gauge, and problem "fixed". Well, the cutting out that is. The voltage drop is still there, it's just not as bad anymore. It's still ridiculous, but not as bad. I've gotten the low-voltage protection maybe three times since then, and that was with headlights on and heater on 2. I can make my headlights look like a strobe light with the right song. If idling at 800rpm, full load from the amp will drop it to 500rpms or less. Even funner when you're trying to pass someone and the car just won't go because of the amp. Forget the AC, heat, rear defrost, or anything else that ***** juice while you're playing music. My guess is, you will be in the same boat as me. The only thing that will keep my (and your) voltage up is an HO alternator. Extra batteries are a no-no, and caps really aren't any better for your alternator that is already under a heavy load. Thicker wires help with the voltage drop, but that's it, it only helps. A HO alternator is the only true fix, and if you get one, you won't need any extra batteries or caps. [/QUOTE]
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