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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8316267" data-attributes="member: 576029">you&#039;ve already proven the source is not an issue.all it takes is for a single wire strand anywhere downstream from the amplifier to cause a slight short and thus send the amp into protect. the amp will turn off then turn back on and the system checks for an internal short then playback resumes.&nbsp; the short can be so slight that at low volumes (thus low output voltages) the amp plays fine for hours.the most common source for a wiring problem is in the doors at the woofers.&nbsp; the speaker wires at the door woofer are always subject to both moisture and movement.&nbsp; the recommended steps for figuring out which speaker wire (if any) is the culprit is to disconnect them one at a time (meaning the corresponding speaker won&#039;t play).&nbsp; once you think you have the speaker singled out, remove it and redo the wiring with more zip ties than before to ensure it doesn&#039;t move again.&nbsp; the second most common source for a wiring problem is in the dash at connections made by the installer.&nbsp; some installers think crimp caps are safe but they are not.&nbsp; the only reliable connection is solder that is protected by heat shrink then protected again by wire loom.&nbsp; all wiring should be protected by loom for the entire routing - the wire insulation alone is not sufficient.&nbsp; &nbsp; wiring in the dash is usually compromised when the head unit is pushed back in - causing strain on the wiring connections and exposing some bare strands (that may not have made it into the connector).BB won&#039;t pay someone else to fix an issue regardless of what another installer will find.for them to say the wiring isn&#039;t a concern is proof they aren&#039;t competent.&nbsp;&nbsp; if they haven&#039;t replaced/loomed the wiring and soldered and loomed all connections then they cannot make the statement that the wiring isn&#039;t suspect.&nbsp; all wiring is susceptible to damage.&nbsp; if they challenge my statement, you can have them call me personally and i am happy to educate them on the topic. i&#039;ve had plenty of experiences in the past 20 years fixing other installers work - and usually not the result of malicious intent but sloppy methods.it certainly can be the amplifier.&nbsp; Alpine amps aren&#039;t that reliable anymore and i&#039;ve had numerous problems with several models.&nbsp; but your issue is most commonly due to a very slight short (from either compromised wiring insulation or poor termination methods).</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8316267, member: 576029"] you've already proven the source is not an issue. all it takes is for a single wire strand anywhere downstream from the amplifier to cause a slight short and thus send the amp into protect. the amp will turn off then turn back on and the system checks for an internal short then playback resumes. the short can be so slight that at low volumes (thus low output voltages) the amp plays fine for hours. the most common source for a wiring problem is in the doors at the woofers. the speaker wires at the door woofer are always subject to both moisture and movement. the recommended steps for figuring out which speaker wire (if any) is the culprit is to disconnect them one at a time (meaning the corresponding speaker won't play). once you think you have the speaker singled out, remove it and redo the wiring with more zip ties than before to ensure it doesn't move again. the second most common source for a wiring problem is in the dash at connections made by the installer. some installers think crimp caps are safe but they are not. the only reliable connection is solder that is protected by heat shrink then protected again by wire loom. all wiring should be protected by loom for the entire routing - the wire insulation alone is not sufficient. wiring in the dash is usually compromised when the head unit is pushed back in - causing strain on the wiring connections and exposing some bare strands (that may not have made it into the connector). BB won't pay someone else to fix an issue regardless of what another installer will find. for them to say the wiring isn't a concern is proof they aren't competent. if they haven't replaced/loomed the wiring and soldered and loomed all connections then they cannot make the statement that the wiring isn't suspect. all wiring is susceptible to damage. if they challenge my statement, you can have them call me personally and i am happy to educate them on the topic. i've had plenty of experiences in the past 20 years fixing other installers work - and usually not the result of malicious intent but sloppy methods. it certainly can be the amplifier. Alpine amps aren't that reliable anymore and i've had numerous problems with several models. but your issue is most commonly due to a very slight short (from either compromised wiring insulation or poor termination methods). [/QUOTE]

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