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<blockquote data-quote="Prowler573" data-source="post: 3073795" data-attributes="member: 561023">So far so good...Let&#039;s just focus on the 125w nominal rating.That means 125w per side ~ each side consisting of 1 tweeter, 1 midrange, 1 midwoofer, and 1 passive crossover module.The amp connects to the crossover module feeding it power (up to a rated 125w nominal input)The crossover module, in turn, divides the input signal into the appropriate frequency bands and sends highs to the tweeter and everything else to the midwoofer.Obviously the output from the head unit isn&#039;t going to be enough power so I&#039;ll need to amp them.&nbsp; I have a kenwood 400 watt, 2-channel amp that I used to use in my old car.&nbsp; Can you use both the outputs from the head unit to power some speakers and then output from your amp to power the rest?&nbsp; For example:Yes, you can do what you&#039;re asking technically (power smaller drivers off the head unit and larger drivers with external amplification) but after that point we begin to get problematic...The headunits which feature internal amplification which is bridgeable are few and far between. The 880PRS isn&#039;t on that short list.I&#039;m a bit confused as to how you intend on turning a 2ch amp into a 4ch unit.Additionally I&#039;d wager the ratings you&#039;re giving are a bit optimistic. I am not aware of a 2ch Kenwood amp that makes 200w per channel into a 4 Ohm load.When speaking in real-world, usable wattage you&#039;re absolutely correct. RMS or Continuous power ratings are the only ones worth paying attention to. The &#039;1000 watt max power&#039; is a specification that is good for nothing more than marketing purposes. You&#039;ll never see 1kW out of it on its best day so that number can be disregarded out of hand.See above - max wattage ratings (whether they be on an amp, a headunit, speakers or subwoofers) are completely inconsequential. Different manufacturers use different terms that mean the same thing - if you see either RMS, Continuous, or Nominal in regards to wattage ratings that is the only figure that&#039;s important and needs to be kept in mind.In your specific case it&#039;s 125w Nominal input per side (see above)</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Prowler573, post: 3073795, member: 561023"] So far so good... Let's just focus on the 125w nominal rating. That means 125w [I]per side[/I] ~ each side consisting of 1 tweeter, 1 midrange, 1 midwoofer, and 1 passive crossover module. The amp connects to the crossover module feeding it power (up to a rated 125w nominal input) The crossover module, in turn, divides the input signal into the appropriate frequency bands and sends highs to the tweeter and everything else to the midwoofer. Obviously the output from the head unit isn't going to be enough power so I'll need to amp them. I have a kenwood 400 watt, 2-channel amp that I used to use in my old car. Can you use both the outputs from the head unit to power some speakers and then output from your amp to power the rest? For example: Yes, you can do what you're asking technically (power smaller drivers off the head unit and larger drivers with external amplification) but after that point we begin to get problematic... The headunits which feature internal amplification which is bridgeable are few and far between. The 880PRS isn't on that short list. I'm a bit confused as to how you intend on turning a 2ch amp into a 4ch unit. Additionally I'd wager the ratings you're giving are a bit optimistic. I am not aware of a 2ch Kenwood amp that makes 200w per channel into a 4 Ohm load. When speaking in real-world, usable wattage you're absolutely correct. RMS or Continuous power ratings are the only ones worth paying attention to. The '1000 watt max power' is a specification that is good for nothing more than marketing purposes. You'll never see 1kW out of it on its best day so that number can be disregarded out of hand. See above - max wattage ratings (whether they be on an amp, a headunit, speakers or subwoofers) are completely inconsequential. Different manufacturers use different terms that mean the same thing - if you see either RMS, Continuous, or Nominal in regards to wattage ratings that is the only figure that's important and needs to be kept in mind. In your specific case it's 125w Nominal input [I]per side [/I](see above) [/QUOTE]

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