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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8704187" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>With sealed enclosure the only important dimensions are that it has to physically fit the subwoofer's basket + an inch for venting. If it doesn't have vent holes from the magnet you can get even closer (but touching the other side of the box isn't very good). The rest you're free to use whatever dimensions to achieve the proper space. Also in a sealed enclosure as you go smaller you turn the sub into an air cushion suspension where you get worse and worse efficiency (worse than sealed already is which is the single worst efficiency box type besides free air) and as you get larger than their recommendation you end going towards an infinite baffle setup where the subwoofer is freer to flex, but also freer to hit xmax if you go too far with it. The measurements that manufacturers recommend are generally to get the best of both worlds. In terms of sealed enclosures you're going to get a very even response curve with no peaks, which is the best for any instrumental music and especially kick drums and bass guitars, but not too good for deep tone hip hop and rap music.</p><p></p><p>With ported they tend to be bigger and those are actually tuned to a certain frequency which is where the peak occurs. A lot of cheap ported boxes are tuned to 35hz which will sound good with deep tone hip hop and rap music, but sound muddy for bass guitars especially. The main advantage to ported is that you get way more effiency and thus can make more noise with a smaller amp and subwoofer rating, but the disadvantage is instrumentals.</p><p></p><p>If both of your cars have great default audio like maybe a full range bose system then you'd probably be happy with just the ported since it'll fill in a lot of blank space and presumably the bose subwoofer will fill in the higher bass portion. However, if either of them lacks thump on a kick drum or doesn't allow bass guitars to shine through the rest of the music then sealed is really something else in terms of quality but you'll never shake the mirrors off.</p><p></p><p>In terms of the quick-swapping of the subwoofer from one the other there's some caveats you might have to be aware of. One is that you'll have to have two LOCs, one for each vehicle because tapping speakers unless you make a custom adapter might take a while. Two is that the settings between the vehicles are going to have to change. You've got two very different sized cabs and sound will behave differently and the signal source is also going to be different, so on that amp that's going to be screwed on to the sub you'll have to have known-preset settings for each to avoid potential clipping. If you got two active LOCs you might be able to just match those instead of the amplifiers for added convenience, although presumably the high pass filter is going to be different in each vehicle as the stock speakers won't be exactly the same and will have different frequencies they perform down to before they need the support of a sub.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8704187, member: 679555"] With sealed enclosure the only important dimensions are that it has to physically fit the subwoofer's basket + an inch for venting. If it doesn't have vent holes from the magnet you can get even closer (but touching the other side of the box isn't very good). The rest you're free to use whatever dimensions to achieve the proper space. Also in a sealed enclosure as you go smaller you turn the sub into an air cushion suspension where you get worse and worse efficiency (worse than sealed already is which is the single worst efficiency box type besides free air) and as you get larger than their recommendation you end going towards an infinite baffle setup where the subwoofer is freer to flex, but also freer to hit xmax if you go too far with it. The measurements that manufacturers recommend are generally to get the best of both worlds. In terms of sealed enclosures you're going to get a very even response curve with no peaks, which is the best for any instrumental music and especially kick drums and bass guitars, but not too good for deep tone hip hop and rap music. With ported they tend to be bigger and those are actually tuned to a certain frequency which is where the peak occurs. A lot of cheap ported boxes are tuned to 35hz which will sound good with deep tone hip hop and rap music, but sound muddy for bass guitars especially. The main advantage to ported is that you get way more effiency and thus can make more noise with a smaller amp and subwoofer rating, but the disadvantage is instrumentals. If both of your cars have great default audio like maybe a full range bose system then you'd probably be happy with just the ported since it'll fill in a lot of blank space and presumably the bose subwoofer will fill in the higher bass portion. However, if either of them lacks thump on a kick drum or doesn't allow bass guitars to shine through the rest of the music then sealed is really something else in terms of quality but you'll never shake the mirrors off. In terms of the quick-swapping of the subwoofer from one the other there's some caveats you might have to be aware of. One is that you'll have to have two LOCs, one for each vehicle because tapping speakers unless you make a custom adapter might take a while. Two is that the settings between the vehicles are going to have to change. You've got two very different sized cabs and sound will behave differently and the signal source is also going to be different, so on that amp that's going to be screwed on to the sub you'll have to have known-preset settings for each to avoid potential clipping. If you got two active LOCs you might be able to just match those instead of the amplifiers for added convenience, although presumably the high pass filter is going to be different in each vehicle as the stock speakers won't be exactly the same and will have different frequencies they perform down to before they need the support of a sub. [/QUOTE]
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