Sealing the doors

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

If my doors are already deadened with 12ft/sq of damplifier each and the area around the speakers are fully sealed, would it be worth it to seal the 3-4 holes left in the doors?

I mean, worth it cause if i ever get problems with the door controls, it won't be fun to work on....

And if i ever seal them, should i just put some deadener over the hole or do i need to work with something harder and then put deadener over it?

Right now, my hpf is around 90hz and i can't really go lower with the power i'm giving my comps set. Would i benefit a lot from doing this?

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[nineball 10+ year member]

deadening the doors like that will help but sealing them will improve your mids. you do need to put something over the hole, then deadener over that. i used roofing flashing to cover mine so that if i ever need to get into the door i can cut through it relatively easy. i have a little help in that my door panel sticks out into the holes that my door has, so even with the lightweight flashing it is still held in place by the panel once installed.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

deadening the doors like that will help but sealing them will improve your mids. you do need to put something over the hole, then deadener over that. i used roofing flashing to cover mine so that if i ever need to get into the door i can cut through it relatively easy. i have a little help in that my door panel sticks out into the holes that my door has, so even with the lightweight flashing it is still held in place by the panel once installed.

Did the midbass really improved? will i'll be able to hp lower ?

Also there is alot of wire getting from the rear to the front panel, how do you works around those?

 

[troy_audi0 10+ year member]

I plan on sealing up my door when i redo them

I will use Skreen door stuff & then Fiberglass over it..

Mounting it with screws will alow me to get into the door later..

Another thing to help out the mid bass,

Seal the mid to the door with foam trim around the outside of the woofer

it will keep the energy of the midbass woofer going out the grill insted of into the door,

Good luck & keep us posted..

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

I plan on sealing up my door when i redo themI will use Skreen door stuff & then Fiberglass over it..

Mounting it with screws will alow me to get into the door later..

Another thing to help out the mid bass,

Seal the mid to the door with foam trim around the outside of the woofer

it will keep the energy of the midbass woofer going out the grill insted of into the door,

Good luck & keep us posted..

Thanks for the advice

I have some dynaxorb somewhere that i could put behind my woofers, i just can't find them in my closet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

I'll seal these wednesday, i'll look at HomeDepot for something i could use to seal with screw, for easy removal purpose

 

[nineball 10+ year member]

Did the midbass really improved? will i'll be able to hp lower ? Also there is alot of wire getting from the rear to the front panel, how do you works around those?

yes there was an improvement in midbass but i have a set of spx-177r which were never really that amazing on midbass to begin with.

i don't understand what you mean about wires from front panel to rear.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

yes there was an improvement in midbass but i have a set of spx-177r which were never really that amazing on midbass to begin with.
i don't understand what you mean about wires from front panel to rear.

ok,

All i wanted to say was that there's a lot of wire coming out of the door grommet and that need to be hooked on the door panel. So i need to find a way to seal around these, without leaving any air leak

 

[nineball 10+ year member]

you will never have your doors 100% sealed. there are drain holes in the bottom of it for water. cut a slice into it, pass the wires/connectors through, use a little more to go over the slice.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

I plan on sealing up my door when i redo themI will use Skreen door stuff & then Fiberglass over it..

Mounting it with screws will alow me to get into the door later..

Another thing to help out the mid bass,

Seal the mid to the door with foam trim around the outside of the woofer

it will keep the energy of the midbass woofer going out the grill insted of into the door,

Good luck & keep us posted..

Bingo. Fiberglass is my favorite way to do this, but flashing will work as well - especially if you double up and put something viscoelastic between the two layers or apply deadener.

Self tapping screws work very well, just use some thread lock to prevent corrosion. You will be happy at some point to have made the covers easily removable.

 

[Corey69 10+ year member]

You should of just used cascade vb2, way easier to apply, and wont be a pain in the *** to remove if you end up having to fix your power windows.

 

[Anthony Collova 10+ year member]

I do reccomend sealing them up for sure

It will give the speakers a more stable environment to play in.

Granted, most door speakers are designed to run IB, sealing does help in most cases.

HEre is how I did my old tacoma a few years ago.

I would do it different for sure, but this is an idea

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2119519/2

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2119519/3

ANT

 

[nineball 10+ year member]

i like the garden hose trick. i'll use that next time.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

One of the primary reasons to seal those holes is to aid in blocking the back wave from combining with the front wave of the driver. The panel also acts as a large baffle, so if there are holes in it, the baffle is far less effective. This is why you hear about midbass improvement when this is done, not due to a drastic reduction in the vibration of the door panel when it has already been treated for vibration.

You're changing the total "Q" of the driver and probably altering the Fs a bit more than compared to a non-sealed door.

And yes, Cascade's VB-2 is THE product for this application. For a surface with a driver moving back and forth, and extensional damper is the best tool for the job.