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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Salt 4 on a 16 Sierra
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8862791" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Any of it will help. I would, at the very least, run another one or two1/0 power and ground runs. You are starving the amp with a single 17ft run of 1/0 wire. Rise is not something you are able to really calculate over the entire frequency band as far as I know, it is a given that it occurs. It rises and falls at different frequencies and while part of this equation, is not likely the cause.</p><p></p><p>Again, you should be running 4/0 and your running 1/0, it's not what you would like to do, the math says it is what you need to do.</p><p></p><p>Under sized power wires generate heat which causes the voltage to drop; the hotter the wire the higher the resistance. The higher the wire resistance, the more the voltage drops.</p><p></p><p>Now add the effects of this to the amplifier. The more the voltage drops the more current it may need to keep the rails voltage up. The hotter the amplifier power supply becomes and more inefficient. Enough voltage drop and things like under/low voltage shutdown will happen. Other neat things like sagging rails can cause hard clipping in the output stage tricking it into speaker protect, thinking it is reading a DC offset.</p><p></p><p>So in a nutshell, you really need to use proper gauge wire for the current needs of the amplifiers. One other thing, if the installation causes a fire and the insurance company finds out it was due to an improper installation, they’ll likely deny your claim. I know it is a pain but going to a larger amp only made the situation worse, putting the horse in front of the horse as the direction of correcting the initial issue. I really don’t think that it’s going to matter which sub your are pushing, your amplifiers motor is not getting the high octane fuel it needs to produce the horsepower you’re looking for.</p><p></p><p>Granted, bigger subs at the same wattage prior to clipping in your scenario are going to be louder, but that is a band-aid for the real issue here. It’s like putting a V8 in a car that had a4 banger in it and leaving the original 1 barrel carburetor on… what’s the point - it's never going to do what you want it too as long as it isn't being fed properly. You also run the real risk of frying your subs. Proper wire is never cheap but fires and blown equipment are <em>always</em> expensive.</p><p></p><p>This is a cost effective add and that would go along way to improve the current flow. It's 2/0 gauge and it's not available through KnuKonceptz. It's all tinned fine strand OFC copper.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B000NI3BKU[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8862791, member: 689267"] Any of it will help. I would, at the very least, run another one or two1/0 power and ground runs. You are starving the amp with a single 17ft run of 1/0 wire. Rise is not something you are able to really calculate over the entire frequency band as far as I know, it is a given that it occurs. It rises and falls at different frequencies and while part of this equation, is not likely the cause. Again, you should be running 4/0 and your running 1/0, it's not what you would like to do, the math says it is what you need to do. Under sized power wires generate heat which causes the voltage to drop; the hotter the wire the higher the resistance. The higher the wire resistance, the more the voltage drops. Now add the effects of this to the amplifier. The more the voltage drops the more current it may need to keep the rails voltage up. The hotter the amplifier power supply becomes and more inefficient. Enough voltage drop and things like under/low voltage shutdown will happen. Other neat things like sagging rails can cause hard clipping in the output stage tricking it into speaker protect, thinking it is reading a DC offset. So in a nutshell, you really need to use proper gauge wire for the current needs of the amplifiers. One other thing, if the installation causes a fire and the insurance company finds out it was due to an improper installation, they’ll likely deny your claim. I know it is a pain but going to a larger amp only made the situation worse, putting the horse in front of the horse as the direction of correcting the initial issue. I really don’t think that it’s going to matter which sub your are pushing, your amplifiers motor is not getting the high octane fuel it needs to produce the horsepower you’re looking for. Granted, bigger subs at the same wattage prior to clipping in your scenario are going to be louder, but that is a band-aid for the real issue here. It’s like putting a V8 in a car that had a4 banger in it and leaving the original 1 barrel carburetor on… what’s the point - it's never going to do what you want it too as long as it isn't being fed properly. You also run the real risk of frying your subs. Proper wire is never cheap but fires and blown equipment are [I]always[/I] expensive. This is a cost effective add and that would go along way to improve the current flow. It's 2/0 gauge and it's not available through KnuKonceptz. It's all tinned fine strand OFC copper. [MEDIA=amazon]B000NI3BKU[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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