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RMS vs and/or = Rated Noise Power ?
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<blockquote data-quote="trumpet" data-source="post: 8279521" data-attributes="member: 628688"><p>The amount of power you can safely have on tap from your amplifier varies greatly. Some knowledgeable and experienced car audio veterans are exceeding the RMS power handling figures by 1 order of magnitude without issues. This is for headroom. Actual power used on average could be a few watts. It doesn't take but a few watts of real power to make tweeters uncomfortably loud, but the dynamics of your music, with crossover selection and gain structure, along with cuts on your EQ if needed and the common sense to turn the volume down all make this work in the end.</p><p></p><p>There's no need to "soak up" the power by wasting it with a resistor.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="trumpet, post: 8279521, member: 628688"] The amount of power you can safely have on tap from your amplifier varies greatly. Some knowledgeable and experienced car audio veterans are exceeding the RMS power handling figures by 1 order of magnitude without issues. This is for headroom. Actual power used on average could be a few watts. It doesn't take but a few watts of real power to make tweeters uncomfortably loud, but the dynamics of your music, with crossover selection and gain structure, along with cuts on your EQ if needed and the common sense to turn the volume down all make this work in the end. There's no need to "soak up" the power by wasting it with a resistor. [/QUOTE]
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RMS vs and/or = Rated Noise Power ?
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