well you could cut some strands off the wire or buy reducers, but the big three to clarify is from the alt to the battery from the engine block to the frame and from the battery neg to the frame this you can do in 0g and then just run a good true 4g to the amp and not worry about reducers.
dude come on, the terminals on the amp for power hence "power wire" gauge, they mean that is the size wire for the electrical supply. there not talking about anything else just the wire for the amp coming from the battery.
Lol. Imma threadjack this shiz for a sec to ask a question that's been bugging me for a while. I know you have personally researched electrical issues, so I'll ask you while you are on the subject. Why 0 GA on the big three and four GA from the front to back? If the amperage capability of wire is dependent on length, wouldn't it make sense to do it the other way around? If you can answer that, I'd appreciate it. Been bugging me. My big three is knu ofc four GA...
truthfully it looks good other then that your right there is no real point as a good strand of 4g is just as effective as a strand of 0g when it comes down to a 3' length, now if my amps needed to draw more then 225amps of current a piece(constant on 8' runs between locks)then I would have no choice to other then to upgrade or suffer voltage issue's at the amp. But I also have two runs of 4g one to each amp with there own separate fuse blocks to reduce strain so there's no issue's on my system. I was just figuring he was hell bent on running 0g to something so I was just giving him a place to use it!
